Some stories, the good ones, have a way of taking on a life of their own in the best of ways. This one is as golden as the wild heads of the turkey red wheat that we’ve baked bread from, now for three years, thanks to three unlikely local collaborators who have made it all possible—Danny Jones, Dale Friesen, and Ed Hill.
You see, the story was as rich as honey before, as turkey red wheat is a hard winter wheat that’s predominately grown in the Plains States and naysayers didn’t think it was possible to grow it in Ohio, but thanks to Danny, Dale, and Ed, it flourishes in our corner of the world. We shared the story online and word of our wheat field in Xenia spread to a museum in the Netherlands that sought to spotlight the life of Menno Simons, whose ideals set the foundation of the Mennonite faith. The exhibit curators were drawn to the purity of the strain of turkey red wheat that we grow—it’s never been hybridized—and the family history of Dale, who shares a rich connection to the seeds through his heritage. As Mennonites fled Russia in the late 1800s to the United States, they took with them their prized turkey red wheat seeds to build a new future. Dale’s grandparents were among those Mennonites who settled in the Plains States. Menno de Vries, a curator of the exhibit, is also a farmer. He knew how important turkey red wheat was to the livelihood of the Mennonite people and sought to connect it to the exhibit. The exhibit “Menno Simons Groen” opened at the Groencentrum in Witmarsum, a small village in the Netherlands, in early June. Dale and Ed sent both flour and nearly two bushels of turkey red wheat seeds to De Vries. At the opening of the exhibit, some of the seeds were scattered in ceremonial fashion on bits of earth running down the floor of the museum. They would later sprout and become a part of the exhibit, which remained open through August. “When they sprinkled the seeds, it was a symbolic blessing of the soil by planting the seed that finally had a resting place,” Ed says.
With the remaining seeds, De Vries intends to return them to the soil of Witmarsum to bring these seeds full circle. “This is wheat that left Crimea and went to the Plains States and then later to Ohio. And because of Dale Friesen, it went back home. Home being the birthplace of the man who is responsible for establishing the Mennonite faith,” Ed says. Although these seeds have now been shared with our new friends afar, we’ve kept plenty to grow wheat from and bake bread with here in Dayton, Ohio. Look for Turkey Red Wheat Sourdough at the DLM Bakery now.
The local food movement is a powerful, beautiful thing. So much that it has elevated New Carlisle, Ohio-based farmer Ray Brentlinger and his non-GMO sweet corn to star status here in Dayton. We barely have to whisper the name “Brentlinger” and mouths start to water as it’s synonymous with the summer staple that Ray brings to our stores. So what makes Brentlinger sweet corn so good?
Let’s start with the deep roots of the farm, established by Ray’s father in 1952. “He put out a tent … they couldn’t afford paper bags so they wrapped it in newspaper,” Ray says of his family’s first corn stand. The sweet corn sold itself, and from there the business took off and the rest is history. Now, the Brentlinger family operates two farm stands in addition to bringing sweet corn to Dorothy Lane Market seven days a week once the season is in full swing.
Ray attributes the land itself as a big contributor to growing such a high quality of sweet corn, as the soil is moist yet drains well, leaving it rich and ideal for the shallow-rooted crop. The farm is bordered by the Mad River, providing natural irrigation. Plus, hidden beneath the soil you’ll find an underground irrigation system that’s been in place since 1970. “You have to have plenty of water for sweet corn,” Ray says, something that can be quite a challenge for many crops in the sweltering heat of the summer. Ideal growing conditions are just one piece to the puzzle though when it comes to ensuring a sweet corn sensation year after year from the crop at Brentlinger’s Farm Market.
The Right Conditions & A Dose of Personality
When you meet Ray, he greets you with a hug and leaves you with a Brentlinger’s Farm T-shirt. He’s smiling and spry and loves to share a knee-slapping kind of laugh with his company. He’s someone you’d want to enjoy a cold glass of iced tea with, but don’t sit down, because Ray’s on his feet (or driving in his Gator) and ready to share with you his passion for his farm, machinery, and his smart methodologies for always making sure Brentlinger is the best sweet corn around.
He’s pretty much grown corn for his whole life, learning the ins and outs as a child from his father. He went on to The Ohio State University to further that education receiving his bachelor’s degree in horticulture. In 1971, he immersed himself in the family business once again, and it truly is a family affair today with his son Andrew, his wife Terri, his brother Tom, sister Linda, and sister-in-law Kathi all taking part.
Besides a healthy dose of enthusiasm, Ray’s expertise shines, as he’s always planting test plots of sweet corn each year. He does this so he can experiment with growing new varieties available—a sure bet that his next crop of sweet corn for the following year will lead the pack in flavor. He says to keep an eye out for not only his signature white sweet corn, but for the yellow as well, as he’s pretty excited about a variety called Honey Select.
You just have to stop and listen to really know what’s abuzz in the food world. What’s in season? What’s tickling the curiosity of chefs? And what’s delicious right now? I had the pleasure of being involved with a conversation like that with all of the brilliant directors here at DLM, whom I greatly admire and respect. They make DLM shine in so many ways, including forming valuable relationships with passionate food and drink purveyors near and far. They aren’t afraid to stop and smell the roses (or taste that latest French cheese, in some cases).
We were thinking about this time of year and the food, drink, and even flowers that are surrounding us. As we spoke about the local strawberry bounty, wild Copper River King Salmon (yes, it’s here), and brilliant blooms, our minds swirled with the color pink—also the color of rosé—and all its glory.
Local Strawberry Sensation
“There’s something about local strawberries that just makes me smile,” says Michelle Mayhew, Produce director at Dorothy Lane Market. We’re excited this year to feature the bounty of new Love Local friends, the VanMeter family. Their strawberry farm is located on 100 rolling acres in Clarkson, KY, and is a labor of love for the whole family. “Danny and Trish want to teach their children values of hard work, so they are all involved with collecting the fruit of their labor,” says Michelle, noting that Danny is a member of the Strawberry Grower’s Association of Kentucky and the Ohio Valley.
Alaska Copper River Wild King Salmon Makes its Splash
Alaska Copper River Wild King Salmon is one of the most sought-after salmons and it’s finally here, coming to us fresh from Alaska. ‘”I’m Coming Home’ is the tune played by Mother Nature beckoning the return of the fish to the headwaters of their birth,” says Jack Gridley, VP of Meat & Seafood. Its prized flavor is attributed to the high Omega-3 oil content as the fish builds up fat to give them energy to travel the long spawning journey up the Copper River.
Fleur to Adore
May started strong with Italian Heather, and with each week, even more splashy blooms have continued to fill our stores. And then, just when we thought it couldn’t get much better, our locally grown bouquet season really kicked into gear. It’s easy to see why there’s so much fleur to adore!
Rosé all May
“It’s like springtime in a bottle,” Todd Templin, VP of Beer, Wine, & The Cheese Shop, has been known to say of the sure as the sun arrival of rosé to our stores each spring. We look forward to its bright fruits, crisp acids, and generally dry finish. The mere mention of rosé, aka the pink wine, elicits many smiles.
Wondering how to make pesto from scratch? The Fall Harvest Vera Jane’s Novello Extra-Virgin Olive Oil is just the Earthy taste of spring you need and will help you in your pesto pursuits (keep reading for our perfect pesto recipe). In Tuscany, Italy, sits the Zanetti family’s farm, where the olives are grown that are used to make our very own Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive Oil.
The fruit of their labor is harvested once a year during a small window. Most of the oil will be stored and bottled as needed, but a select amount is sent to us as the first harvest for you to enjoy. We consider this the most exciting oil of the year with its grassy taste that explodes with freshness as it hits your mouth. It’s a special treat, indeed, and only distinguished as Novello for a limited time. What to do with it? Drizzle liberally. Here are a few ideas, including our recipe for perfect pesto.
Drizzle on top of steamed vegetables, pasta, pizza, steak, or DLM Gelato.
Use to lightly fry meats and seafood.
Finish with a little sea salt, freshly ground pepper, or dried herbs and use as a dip for DLM Artisan Bread.
Make bruschetta, a simple vinaigrette, or pesto!
HOW TO MAKE CHEF CARRIE’S PERFECT PESTO RECIPE
3 garlic cloves
½ tsp sea salt, or more to taste
3 oz basil leaves ( about 1 cup packed )
2 Tbsp pine nuts
2 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated
½ cup Vera Jane’s Novello Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
USING YOUR FOOD PROCESSOR Pulse the garlic, salt, and pine nuts until finely minced. Add the basil and pulse until finely minced. Stir in the olive oil and cheese, and adjust seasoning according to taste if needed.
For more of an authentic pesto, use a mortar and pestle for a finer texture.
MORTAR AND PESTLE Step 1: Combine the garlic salt and grind into a paste.
Step 2: Add the basil a handful at a time and grind in a circular motion; continue until all the basil is crushed.
Step 3: Add the pine nuts and crush into the paste, then grind in the cheese.
Step 4: Slowly drizzle in the olive oil until well incorporated. Ready to eat right away, or place in a covered jar with a small amount of additional olive oil.
Standing in our Turkey Red Wheat field, located near Waynesville, Ohio, you’re surrounded by glimpses of the past, present, and future no matter which direction you look. The wild, golden heads of this bearded wheat dance gently with the wind like a balloon batting in the sky. It’s a hard winter wheat that isn’t typically grown on Ohio soil, but here it is robust and beautiful. Just one taste of the Turkey Red Wheat Bread that we’ve baked from this wheat, and it’s clear that you’re biting into a slice of history and so much more. It’s food with a story, and this one is quite delicious, touching on history, perseverance, and a shared passion of local partners and friends.
Take a bite out of this rich story behind our Turkey Red Wheat Bread with the above video, documenting our 2017 journey with Turkey Red Wheat from grain to oven. Video by Brett Dennis & Dorothy Lane Market.
The germ of an idea for this wheat field was actually set into motion many years ago. It was at a farmers’ market in 1992 when Ed Hill, of Hill Family Farm, and Dale Friesen first crossed paths. Ed, who studied and grew ancient grains, had long been interested in Turkey Red Wheat. He grew test plots and was fascinated by its colorful history. When empress Catherine the Great died and the Tsars took power, many Mennonites living in Russia had their children pluck the best Turkey Red Wheat seeds from the farmlands prior to their families fleeing to the United States and Canada. In pursuit of religious freedom, they brought with them the seeds that would flourish across The Breadbasket, where many settled in the U.S. “They must have prized their wheat so much,” says Ed. “They brought their language, their skills, and they brought their wheat.”
Ed was shocked to find out that he was standing before a direct descendant of these immigrants. Dale’s grandfathers and grandmother were among the children of the Mennonites who set down roots in Nebraska. “That started our conversation and a lifelong friendship. When you start talking to someone whose relatives are kind of in the middle of this … you kind of step back and let them do the talking,” Ed says.
Their conversations continued over the years, but they knew to pull this off they needed a buyer—some way to bring the grains to market and into the hands of local people. Then, Ed ran into DLM’s Jennifer Clark while he was delivering Hill Family Farm Chicken to DLM. She approached Ed to see if he knew of anyone growing soft winter wheat, which is more commonly grown in Ohio and can be used for cakes and pastries. He had something better to offer up—Turkey Red Wheat, which could be baked into bread should the yield be just right. From there, a spark was ignited, but questions loomed. Would this crop thrive on Ohio soil and if so, how would it behave when it came to baking bread? And who would actually farm it with Ed in his late seventies and Dale in his eighties?
A Risky Venture
Turkey Red Wheat is a beautiful sight. “It’s a wild, wild run … you see it dancing in the wind,” Ed marvels. When most people see a stump in the road, Ed will find a way around it. “When someone tells me I can’t do something, that’s a pretty good motivator,” he says. You see, Ed is the synapse that connects it all together with our story here, from cultivating a vision rooted in historical significance to figuring out the nuts and bolts so it can happen. Many didn’t think that it could be done.
One of those initial skeptics, Scott Fox, DLM’s VP of Bakery Operations who’s built our artisan bread program from the ground up, wears a big smile on his face as the wheat radiates a golden aura. “I’ve been a baker for 35 years and I’ve always been taught that good hard winter wheat had to come from out in The Plains States and that nothing would really work east of the Mississippi,” he says. “Much to my surprise, I love when I’m proved wrong.”
Many thanks goes to Danny Jones, the local farmer who was crazy enough to say “yes” to this venture. He reaches down and plucks off a wheat berry. It’s slightly gummy with a distinguishable sweetness that sets it apart from more conventional wheat. He can tell from the wheat berries when harvest is nearing, but the true test is to run a combine through and measure the moisture level. Danny chose to plant this crop directly next to his house so that others in the area could easily see it when they drove by. “Why don’t they do it … because it takes [more time] getting everything ready … but it’s all worth it,” Danny says.
Forming a Local Circle
So why did Danny say “yes,” a question that many area farmers have asked him? “It’s local. Somebody producing something local. Somebody using the local product.” He also just wanted to do something that’s not usually done. The unknowns of growing Turkey Red Wheat on his soil were like a puzzle waiting to be solved.
“Danny, he’s one of a kind. He makes it all happen,” Dale says. “I grew up where there was dryland farming. Water was a problem and rain was a problem. Here, moisture is not. Danny is so up on things, it really amazes me.” Dale’s recollection of farming Turkey Red Wheat in his youth comes together with Danny’s knowledge of the farmland here, and the results speak volumes. “Dale is probably the mastermind of how to grow it … and where to grow it, and when to grow it … and I just do the work that I think I know how to do,” Danny says. Ed fits in with his persistence and the historical context he brings to the table, having studied this grain, including records of it being farmed a century ago in Ohio. “That made me push on. Let’s do something here,” Ed says.
It’s the climate in Ohio that presents the greatest challenge, as Turkey Red Wheat is tall and events like rain, wind, and hail can bend it over. But, for some reason, it stands back up afterward. “We’re still learning what this wheat does and how it adapts to Ohio weather,” says Danny.
Although Ed, Danny, and Dale will sometimes have differing opinions on how to go about farming it, they all agree that this is just the start of something bigger. “I think we’re just hitting the tip of it with growing something local that can be made into bread locally and enjoyed by local people,” Danny says.
A Crop Unlike Any Other
From the baking side, Jennifer and Scott have been amazed with the quality of bread that results from this wheat, which is locally milled into flour. The protein levels of bread play heavily into the science of baking, and this year’s run is off the chart, coming in at 13.7% , which is considerably higher than most hard winter wheats. “After the process of milling, what we find as far as bread-making is it likes a shorter fermentation time and the end product [has] got a little natural sweetness to it and also a really nice nutty flavor to it and we feel that Turkey Red Wheat … being that it’s never been hybridized … that your body tends to be able to digest it much easier,” Scott says. Jennifer adds that “it’s an heirloom grain that has not been messed with. You can trace it back to Biblical times. It’s not hybridized in any way. It’s wheat as your body knows wheat to really be.”
When we debuted a limited run of Turkey Red Wheat Bread last year, the community gobbled it up quickly. That’s why DLM increased its investment from 2.5 acres in 2016 to 10 acres of this year’s 20-acre harvest. “From farm to fork, we’re actually growing an un-hybridized, ancient grain … and we’re going to be selling it at Dorothy Lane Market’s three Bakeries,” Scott says. “This is where the future of artisan bread is going.”
We searched high and low for just the right local partners to mill this year’s crop. That search led us to Ohio-based Bear’s Mill, one of the few operating water-powered mills in Ohio. Established in 1849, it has a well-deserved place on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places. Using a stone mill, master miller Terry Clark worked a portion of this year’s harvest into flour to bake bread from, just the way it would have been done by Dale’s ancestors. Due to the limits of how much this historic mill could handle, we also enlisted the expertise of local Amishman Joseph Nisley to also help prepare this year’s yield into the perfect flour to bake into bread.
More Than Just Bread
The cutting edge nature of a grocery store to be growing its own wheat to be milled into flour and baked into bread is something unique that we never dreamed would be possible, but thanks to three men—Dale, Ed, and Danny—it is. At the heart of it all though is Dale and his connection to this heirloom grain.
In his eighties, he’s doing something that he didn’t think was possible as he honors the legacy of his ancestors and shares that with his local community. He sits at a picnic table next to the wheat field and his eyes glisten. “Never in my wildest dreams … To see that big of a field reminds me of what I grew up with.” Dale was born in Nebraska where his Mennonite ancestors settled when they came to America. He lived in a sod house and his family grew a Turkey Red Wheat crop every other year so that the land could have a year to rest and recoup its moisture. He recalls harvest time and the celebration that would occur afterward. “When that was growing and getting golden, it was the most beautiful thing you ever saw. This is just a good reminder of what I grew up with,” he says.
Twice a week, his mother would bake Turkey Red Wheat bread. Now, he can share that same taste with his children and grandchildren. Seeing Dale come to life with memories makes it all worth it for the circle of local partners gathered at the wheat field on this beautiful morning. “The most meaningful thing to me about this is absolutely Dale … because this has meant so much to him,” Jennifer says. “I want [people] to know that Dale Friesen and his family were stewards of this heirloom grain and how important it is in history. And that we are proud to partner with [Dale, Danny, and Ed] to bring this to your tables.”