February 2006 Market Report [click for PDF]
Department Features - Recipes - Monthly Prizes

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Good Eating in Southern Italy
When a major change occurs, many times it takes years to see all the other changes that it can cause. When the European Union decided on a common currency, the Euro, there was not much concern in southern Italy, where farming is a way of life. Then everything started selling in Euros instead of Lire, and prices rose accordingly. All of a sudden the money made from farming was not going as far as it used to, and ideas began percolating on how to make more money.

Fast-forward to the present, and slowly this major change is awakening areas south of Rome, such as Calabria, Puglia, and Sicily, to begin exporting more of their high-quality products.

I was lucky enough to spend a couple of weeks enjoying the food and lifestyle of southern Italy with Gioacchino Passalacqua, our food guide; Marta Merico, the producer of Piana degli Ulivi olive oil; and fellow American friends and foodies. Gioacchino is from Sicily, and he at the forefront of trying to bring some of these high-quality foods to the States. These producers all had several things in common: passion for their product, high-quality standards that made sanitation paramount, and history that was tied to family and the region. I hope you enjoy some of the things we discovered.

Cavalli Olive Oil
The Cavalli family has owned their land, outside the city of Matera, since the 1600’s, and today they are lawyers by trade, but farmers by passion. They own 380 hectares, 30 hectares of which are planted with olive trees. Of those hectares, 18 hectares are irrigated, with the rest to be irrigated in the next couple of years. Silvia Cavalli has total control of blending, bottling, quality, and promotion of the oil after harvest. The trees are between 10 and 20 years old, and each branch has a different olive grafted to it, either Frantoio, Coratina, or Leccino. This way they are automatically blended when they are taken off the trees. Their oil is smooth and almondy, with a touch of pepper on the back palate on the finish. It would be great for making bruschetta.

Marta Lisi’s Oil — Piana degli Ulivi
After seeing row after row of olive trees wherever you went, the first thing you notice about Marta’s trees are their ages: the youngest 200, the oldest 500 years old. These old trees have been handed down through generations. Marta still preserves the trees that her grandfather planted over 500 years ago, even though they no longer bear many olives. Passion has been instilled in her veins. Italy came up with the D.O.P. (Denominazione d’Origine Protetta) system of rating the quality of olives, which states one cannot have over .08% acidity on extra-virgin olive oil. Marta feels even this is too high, so she refuses to be certified D.O.P., because it is too low of a standard. Her oil ranges from .018–.03%. Instead of burning ash around her trees (as her competitors do) to keep away the grass that would deprive the trees of water, Marta simply furrows the ground, and manages without the use of pesticides. When pressing the olives to extract the oil, most producers press for 50 minutes. Marta will not go past 20 minutes, because she feels the extra heat that is generated shortens the shelf life. Yes this lowers the yield; however, it produces an oil with a high quantity of polyphenols and vitamin E (which give the oil more health-protective aromatic properties, double in comparison to other oils) and also results in a longer shelf life. Marta’s oil is full-bodied, with a little grass ending with some pepper, indicating freshness and antioxidant richness. Her oil would go well on salads, greens, and fish.

Bonajuto Chocolate
The Bonajuto family has been in the chocolate business since 1827, starting with contracts with two plantations in Africa. Don Cicio Bonajuto opened up their retail shop in 1880. The manufacture of chocolate went through a revolution in the 1879 when Rodolphe Lindt of Switzerland invented the process called conching, which involves heating and grinding the chocolate solids very finely to ensure that the liquid is evenly blended, paving the way for the really smooth chocolate we know today. Bonajuto’s chocolate is made the old-fashioned way, by first grating the chocolate, and not heating the temperature above 45 C°, whereas Lindt’s smooth chocolate was heated up to 80 C°. Paolo explained that 380 aromas are lost at that high temperature, and that all the good antioxidants that you read about today are partially lost when at the higher temperatures. Bonajuto’s chocolate retains all these good things. The downside is that it does have a grainy texture, and the color is not that dark uniform brown you expect, but instead a light brown look, almost as if it has sat on the shelf too long. Looks can deceive, and you will be surprised by the taste. We brought home the vanilla and cinnamon, but try the red pepper for a twist in taste.

Gina & Sofia Pasta
Frencesca D’Oria’s father owns a local bakery, but she wanted to do something different and unique. When Francesca was in Montreal, Canada for three weeks and Ontario for a month, she was asked over and over if she knew Sofia Loren or Gina Lollobrigida. So when she started her pasta company, she thought Gina & Sofia would be an easy way for people to remember the name of her pasta when she started exporting it to North America. Francesca not only wanted to make the traditional semolina pasta, but she also wanted to make a pasta with barley. After experimenting with different blends, she found that 70% semolina/30% barley was the highest percentage of barley she could use that would still hold together. Dried pasta regulations demand no more than 12.5% water content. Francesca feels it cooks better at 10.5%, plus you do not pay for the extra water weight. To do this it takes 24 hours of drying in an oven that changes its circulation every seven minutes. She uses bronze dies for cutting, so the pasta has rougher edges for the sauce to cling to. Once you have tasted her barley pasta I don’t think she will have to worry about name recognition.

Pasticceria Malandrino Cookies
We stayed one night on a cattle farm about 10 miles outside Ragusa, which is located in the southern part of Sicily. The Malandrino family bought the cattle farm for a thirty-year grand vision. They bought the land in 1972, and everyone told them they were crazy because no one would come to buy their cookies there. Their critics had a point; in 1972 no one owned a car in Ragusa to be able to drive outside of town. Their cookies are made with no short cuts. They use almond powder instead of vegetable powder, and use Sicilian almonds instead of the cheaper California almonds. Concern for quality is always a main concern. They use no preservatives, but as long as the product is sealed in plastic it will be fresh for several months. One of their cookies is like a piece of fine chocolate; it will satisfy most people’s cravings for a treat.

Dolci Pensieri di Calabria — Figs
OK, I had been tasting great food in absolutely stunning settings for over a week, and I just did not think I could be surprised any longer. But everyone on the tour agreed that the surprise tasting for the whole trip was, of all things, fig balls. Pensieri is a family-owned business, and owner Antonio Rao began by helping his mother when he was little to make various fig products. The figs are boiled, than pressed, then boiled again. This creates what Antonio calls “fig honey”, but its consistency is more like molasses. They watch it for 20 days to make sure it’s stable. The fig ball is a handful of figs squeezed together, then wrapped in two fig leaves and baked five to six hours, while being turned occasionally. They make a great snack. We also brought home their fig salami, which you cut in slices to eat, and a wonderful almond-stuffed fig covered in chocolate. The most addictive product they had (I had to slow Calvin down from eating all the samples) was a clementine chocolate-covered treat. The sweet clementine just explodes in your mouth!

La Nonna’s Honey
Who would have thought that on my second day in Sicily I would meet the godfather of bees?. Salvatore Vultaggio has been tending his bees and making honey for years as a hobby. In 1989 he decided he would open a little storefront and start selling retail instead of just making it for his family. In Sicily if you have a bee problem you call Salvatore. He uses all fresh ingredients and real fruit and only when it is in season. He uses Sulla, a French honeysuckle, in several of his honeys which thickens the honey and adds another dimension to the flavor.

Edward*

SPECIALTY CHEESE

HEALTHY LIVING

Studies have shown that 90% of Americans will be affected by gum disease during their lifetime, and 25% will lose at least one tooth by the age of 60. In May 2000, the first Surgeon General’s report on Oral Health in America was published. It discussed research pointing to the relationship of chronic oral infections to heart and lung diseases, stroke, and premature births. It also notes the association between periodontal disease and diabetes. According to the American Academy of Periodontology, bacteria can enter the bloodstream, travel to major organs, and create new infections. “After all, the mouth is attached to the rest of the body” says a spokesperson.

Recommendations from the Surgeon General’s report include brushing twice daily and flossing once a day, replacing toothbrushes every three months, and seeing your dentist at least twice a year. Ken Wical, D.D.S., a professor of restorative dentistry at Loma Linda University, takes his suggestions one step further. “Anything that improves health overall and the body’s ability to resist disease will affect the mouth positively. Eat badly enough, or indulge in damaging behaviors such as smoking, and your whole body suffers, including your mouth” he says. He specifically recommends eliminating soft drinks, which not only contain tons of sugar that may feed bacteria, but also excessive levels of phosphorus that could lead to the leaching of calcium from the bone. And this includes diet pop. Apparently, many researchers believe that calcium is first robbed, not from the hips or spine, but from the jaw, leading to tooth loss.

Dr. Wical also suggests using nutritional supplements such as vitamin C and CoEnzyme Q10 (CoQ10). Both are potent antioxidants that can strengthen weak gums, help battle bacteria, and reduce inflammation. Herbs such as goldenseal, echinacea, and myrrh can safely help destroy bacteria and enhance immune function. Bee propolis and tea tree oil have antiseptic properties to help improve oral health.

In our Healthy Living Department this month, we will be featuring Tom’s of Maine oral care products. Tom’s of Maine, established in 1970, is the number one natural care brand worldwide. In keeping with their mission to “serve their customers’ health needs with imaginative science from plants and minerals”, Tom’s products are free of dyes, artificial sweeteners, and preservatives. They use oils from fruits, spices, and minty plants for flavoring, natural silica for whitening, and zinc citrate and baking soda for the prevention and removal of plaque. Tom’s toothpastes are available with or without fluoride. Stop by the department for a free sample!

To learn more about oral healthcare and its relationship to modern-day diseases, please join us as we welcome Mark Meclosky, D.D.S., of Ledgestone Dentistry to our Springboro location on Tuesday, February 21, from 7 – 8:30 pm. Ledgestone is known for their “natural” approach to dentistry. Dr. Meclosky earned his degree from Creighton University in Omaha, Nebraska, and has been in practice for 20 years. He uses non-metal fillings for cavities (no mercury!), makes all ceramic crowns in office (only one trip!), and accommodates physician’s referrals for tough TMJ problems (like migraines!).

The cost is $10.00 and registration is required. To register, or for more information, go to
www.dorothylane.com, or contact Lori Kelch (937 434-1294) or Joy Kemp (937 748-6800)

For a printable version of the recipes listed below, click here.

Fresh Tomato Salad

• 2 Tbsp Aunt Vera’s Italian Red Wine Vinegar
• 1 Tbsp Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
• 1 tsp sugar
• Sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, to taste
• 2 cups cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
• ¼ cup torn fresh basil leaves

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, oil, sugar, salt, and pepper. Toss dressing with tomatoes in a serving bowl. Can be made ahead and refrigerated for 1 hour. Add basil just before serving. This salad is best served at room temperature. Makes 2 cups

Per ¼ cup serving: 27 calories (59% calories from fat); 2g total fat; 0g saturated fat; 0mg cholesterol; 3mg sodium;
3g total carbohydrates; 0g protein

Chicken and Sausage Manicotti
Adapted from Cuisine at home, December 2005

• 8 oz boneless, skinless DLM Chicken Breast, diced
• Béchamel Sauce
• 4 oz bulk DLM Sweet Italian Sausage
• 3 Tbsp unsalted butter
• 8-oz pkg sliced button mushrooms
• ¼ cup flour
• 3.5-oz pkg fresh shiitake mushrooms
• 3 cups 2% milk
• 1 medium red bell pepper, seeded, julienned
• 1 tsp sea salt
• 1 Tbsp minced garlic
• ¼ tsp white pepper
• 1 tsp Italian seasoning
• ¼ tsp nutmeg
• Sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, to taste
• ¼ tsp Cayenne pepper
• 1 cup shredded fontina cheese
• ¾ cup ricotta cheese
• ¾ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 1 bunch green onions, sliced
• 1 large egg
• 12-oz pkg Rossi Pasta classic lasagna noodles (these are flat, not ripple-edged)
• 4 oz fresh mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced

Preheat oven to 425ºF. Coat a 13x9 inch casserole dish with nonstick spray. Set aside.
Sauté chicken and sausage in a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. When brown, add mushrooms, bell pepper, garlic, and Italian seasoning; cook until vegetables are soft, 8-10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and remove from heat; cool briefly.

Blend cheeses, green onions, and egg together in a large bowl. Fold in chicken mixture until combined. Cook pasta in boiling salted water for 10 minutes. Drain, rinse, and pat noodles dry with a paper towel. Cut each noodle in half.

Prepare béchamel sauce: Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute. Gradually whisk in milk, and then increase heat to medium-high. Bring to a simmer, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens. Remove from heat and add seasonings.
Spread 1 cup of béchamel sauce in the bottom of the prepared casserole dish.

Measure ¼ cup of chicken-cheese filling onto each noodle, shaping it into a cylinder. Roll the manicotti like a rug; snugly, but not so tight the pasta tears. Arrange the rolled manicotti in the prepared casserole dish and top with remaining béchamel sauce and mozzarella slices. Cover casserole dish with foil and bake for 25 minutes. Remove foil and bake an additional 15 minutes or until cheese is golden and sauce is bubbly. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving. Serve with Fresh Tomato Salad. Makes 8-10 servings (18 manicotti)

Per manicotti: 240 calories (42% calories from fat); 11g total fat; 6g saturated fat; 62mg cholesterol; 353mg sodium; 20g total carbohydrates; 14g protein

DLM School of Cooking Favorite!

Teddy Bear Gift Bread
Bring cheer to someone special with this “beary” special homemade bread. Be sure to check out our Kids in the Kitchen classes for Petite Chefs (grades 1, 2, & 3) andJunior Chefs (grades 4, 5, & 6). All classes are hands-on and held on weekday afternoons from 4:30 to 6 p.m. and are taught by Zebbie Borland.

• 2 pkgs rapid rise active dry yeast
• 3/4 cup buttermilk
• 1/3 cup warm water, 100°–110° F
• 1/2 cup water, 100°–110° F
• 1/4 cup honey
• 3 eggs, divided
• 2 Tbsp sugar butter for greasing cookie sheets
• 2 tsp salt Cornmeal
• 6 cups flour, divided Raisins
• 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted

Preheat oven to 350° F. Measure the first 10 ingredients and make sure water is at the proper temperature.

Dissolve yeast into warm water in a large mixing bowl. Add honey, sugar, and salt, and stir until blended. Stir in 3 cups of the flour, the butter, buttermilk, water, and 2 of the eggs. Beat until smooth. Blend in remaining flour to make a smooth dough. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and allow to rise in a warm, draft-free place until batch doubles in size; this should take 30 to 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, liberally grease two cookie sheets, and dust with cornmeal. Punch dough down and turn out to a clean, floured surface. Knead the dough a little, just until it’s no longer sticky. Divide dough into equal portions for as many bears as desired. Shape each bear as follows: make a big oval for the body and a ball for the head. Make smaller balls for the nose, ears, arms, and legs; use raisins for eyes and maybe a belly button. Place on cookie sheets and brush with remaining egg beaten with a little water. Allow to rise 30 minutes.

Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool before serving. Makes 2 loaf-size bears or
12 small bears

DLM School of Cooking Favorite!

Applesauce Cupcakes
From our Wartime Dinner with Molly, American Girl Doll cooking class. Molly was a girl growing up in the 1940’s – during World War II. To help with the war effort, she tended a “Victory Garden” in her backyard. Molly also helped prepare her family’s meals without certain foods, so these foods could be sent to feed the soldiers.

• 2 cups flour
• 1/3 cup unsalted butter
• 1 tsp baking soda
• 3/4 cup honey
• 1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
• 1 cup unsweetened applesauce
• 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 cup seedless raisins
• 1/4 tsp ground cloves
• 1/4 cup walnuts, chopped
• 1/4 tsp salt Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows)

Preheat oven to 350° F. Line cupcake pans with paper liners.

Sift flour, baking soda, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, and salt into medium mixing bowl. Measure the butter into a large mixing bowl; beat with an electric mixer until fluffy. Add honey. Mix well.

Add half the applesauce and half the sifted dry ingredients to the honey and butter mixture; mix at medium speed. Add remaining applesauce and dry ingredients. Mix again. Stir in raisins and walnuts.

Spoon batter into cupcake pans, filling each about 2/3 full. Bake 25 to 30 minutes. Allow cupcakes to cool in pans. After ten minutes, remove from pans and cool completely. Frost with Cream Cheese Frosting.

Cream Cheese Frosting
Makes enough for 16 cupcakes

• 4 oz cream cheese, softened
• 8 oz confectioner’s sugar
• ¼ cup butter, room temperature
• 1 tsp vanilla

Cream together cream cheese and butter. Add sugar and mix until light and fluffy. Add vanilla. Mix well. Frost cupcakes. Makes 16 cupcakes.

Throughout the month of February, each time you use your Club DLM card you will be given a chance to win...

• $60 Gift Certificate to Lincoln Park Grille
• St. Patrick’s Day Basket ($50 value)
• $40 Gift Certificate to The Barnsider or Wellington Grille

One set of prizes will be awarded at each store location unless otherwise specified. No purchase necessary to enter.