September 2005 Market Report [click for PDF]
Department Features - Recipes - Monthly Prizes

For past issues of the Market Report, visit our Market Report Archive!

Club DLM card is required for all sale prices. Prices herein are valid through September 30, 2005. In the event of a typographical error, in-store prices will prevail. All sale items are limit five with Club DLM card.

A Taste of Northern Italy

Visit Italy just once, and if you’re paying any attention to the food at all, you quickly realize how regionally oriented Italians are. On my first trip there some years ago I was surprised to learn that Tuscans largely ignore balsamic vinegar, for example. (Balsamic is produced in the regions of Reggio Emilia and Modena, just a few hours’ drive north of Tuscany.) I’m not complaining about Tuscany….with its wines, olive oils, pecorino, and wild boar. Just know that “Italian food” is impossible to define without being region-specific. Maybe it’s the Italian connection to the land, a long culinary history, or simply regional pride. In any case, discovering the regional foods of Italy is both educational and pleasurable. This past May, I was invited to take a trip along with other American food importers and retailers to the extreme north of Italy, in the Italian Alps, notably the region of Alto Adige (Ahl'-toe Ah'-dee-jay).

When I first arrived at the Bolzano airport, and Stefan met me with his German accent, I thought, in my jet-lag fog, that I had flown to Austria by mistake. A native Italian, Stefan (not Stefano) is a Tyrolean, a German-speaking Italian. I later learned that 70% of the population of this part of Italy speaks German as their first language. From the airport to the Speck plant, Stefan gave me an overview of the region. As we zipped around the curvy roads, he told me that some Tyroleans still speak an ancient dialect that pre-dates Roman incursions, and how the area is known for its cow’s milk cheeses, golden apples, and flavorful ham, known as Speck. I tried to pay attention while enjoying some of the most beautiful scenery in the world: verdant valleys, old castles, and the majestic Alps.

Speck is unique to the Italian Alps, and has, you could say, both Italian roots as well as German. It’s German in the sense that the ham is rubbed with spices and cold-smoked, and Italian because it is salt-cured as well. As I toured the Recla family’s plant with Stefan and a guy named Rammstein, I saw how select raw hams first get covered with a mixture of salt and spices, then are cold-smoked, and finally slowly cured over a period of about six months. Herr Rammstein also explained how to eat Speck and excitedly insisted in rapid German that you must eat the fat, where much of the flavor is. Sounds bad, I know, but we’re only talking about eating a few thin slices at a time. (My general observation of Europeans’ view of food is that they know how to enjoy good things in a healthy way without obsessing, be it ham, wine, sweets, etc.) After the tour, I met up with the other Americans as Franz Recla and his family hosted us for a wonderful lunch, featuring Speck, of course. It was the first of many three-hour lunches on this trip, with even longer dinners, mind you. “We are food professionals after all,” I rationalized. If Lance Armstrong can pedal his bike up the Alps for hours, surely I can practice my profession (food) at the same venue with similar zeal. The remainder of our three days in Alto Adige was taken up by a visit to an outdoor menagerie of Alpine birds of prey, a traditional dinner at an old farmhouse way up the mountains, and entertainment at the Speck Festival, replete with tubas, lederhosen, steins of beer, and plenty of oom-pa!

I left Alto Adige with some new friends, good memories, and an undying craving for Speck. This ham is interesting and complex in flavor, and it’s probably the most versatile of the great European hams. For one thing, Speck can be heated and won’t shrivel up. This makes it an easy addition to many dishes, including pasta, beans, soups, and omelettes. You can lightly fry it like bacon and serve with morning eggs, or eat it as is with a good crusty bread and a slightly chilled glass of Lagrein, a simple red wine from the Alps (see Todd’s article on page two). You can also add a thin slice or two to a salad. I think once you experiment with Speck it will become a regular part of good food at your home. For starters, try the recipe below.

Spaghetti alla Speck
This is one way I’ve been eating Speck recently. It’s a little twist on the classic Roman dish Spaghetti alla carbonara.

• (1) 17-oz pkg Italian-quality spaghetti, such as Rustichella or Martelli
• 1 long slice of Speck about 1/4 inch thick (about 1/3 lb), cut crosswise into thin strips (with fat and meat on every strip)
• 4 whole jumbo Morning Sun Farm Organic Eggs and one additional egg yolk
• 1/3 lb Sini Fulvi Pecorino Romano cheese, grated
• Sea salt to taste
• Pepper to taste
• 1/2 pkg Bonduelle Frozen Peas

Cook the pasta to al dente in a large pot of salted boiling water. While pasta is cooking, sauté the Speck in a skillet. Drain off excess fat and set the Speck aside. Lightly whisk together eggs, egg yolk, half of the cheese, and a pinch of salt and pepper. When pasta is finished, drain, reserving one cup cooking water. Return pasta to warm pot and place on warm burner. Immediately stir in the egg/cheese mixture while the pasta is still hot. This will “cook” the egg mixture. Stir in the Speck. Add more salt and pepper to taste, and some of the cooking water if pasta is too thick. Stir in the peas. Serve immediately, topping each serving with some of the remaining grated cheese. Makes 4 to 6 servings

Crucolo
We departed Bolzano after three days and headed south a couple of hours to visit a company known as Crucolo, located in the Trentino region’s Valsugana Valley and owned by the Purin family. They produce a cheese, a full line of salami, and liquor called Parampa’mpoli®, all of outstanding quality. At the heart of the operation is a restaurant called Rifugio Crucolo, carved in the side of a mountain. How could one family excel at making such diverse food and drink? I had my doubts until I learned that the family has owned and operated Rifugio Crucolo for some 200 years! To put it mildly, you could say they’ve given each of their products some time and thought. The day’s agenda included a visit to the production facilities and a hike through a forest trail. Lunch was in a mountain cabin complete with a huge fireplace, and included salami, bread, wine, and polenta topped with melted Crucolo cheese. That evening we visited the Purins’ amazing wine and cheese cave under the restaurant, and finished with a grand meal.

If you haven’t done so already, you’ve got to try their cheese. It’s one of my top few favorites from the Alps, and it’s been selling very well at DLM recently. Crucolo cheese gets its character from some very special milk. When you see the grassy, flower-filled meadows that the cows graze on, something like a scene out of The Sound of Music, you understand why the cheese tastes so good. It looks like a miniature Emmental, with holes, etc, and has a creamy, buttery taste marked by the herbal scents from the milk. You can eat it as is, you can melt it over potatoes or polenta, you can eat it with salami, you can give slices to your kids. Everybody I know who tries Crucolo loves it.

More Great Cheese, Ham, and Olive Oil
The next couple of days in Italy included a visit to another cheese producer of note in the Trentino region by the name of Pinzolo Fiavè. Cheesemaker Gianni Mosca gave us a step-by-step tour of the cheesemaking process, starting at a dairy farm in the morning, up to a tasting of their selection of cheeses in the evening. What impressed me at every step was how technology was used, not to alter the character of the cheeses, but to make them consistent. The milks Gianni uses are from cattle and goats of the locale, once again starting with the nutritious grasses of the alpine valleys. My favorites from this producer included Pinzolo Spressa, a pressed (hence the name) cows’ milk hard cheese with plenty of character. Fontal Fiavé is another semi-hard cheese that is great for snacking. In fact, I was merrily munching on a big chunk just last night, watching ESPN.

Mention Italian olive oil, and most of us think of Tuscany, Sicily, or perhaps Umbria. But as I experienced, northern Italians are not deprived of great oils. In fact, the olive trees that grow on the steep banks of Lago di Garda produce some very elegant oils. Among this group is the oil produced by the Turri family. Giovanni Turri showed us their groves and production facilities, and treated us to a tasting of one of the smoothest oils I’ve ever had: their DOP* Turri Oil. Buy a bottle and start drizzling it on your fish dishes, fresh greens, and other finishing applications. You will love it.

After a wonderful day with the Turri family, I thought, how could the trip get any better, at least eating-wise? It did. We made it down to Langhirano, which is a town near Parma, where the famous ham Prosciutto di Parma is produced. We made a visit to one of the few family-owned producers left, Leoncini. There we enjoyed not only Prosciutto di Parma, but also wonderful Leoncini Porchetta, a rolled cooked ham with spices and just the right amount of fat is also lip-smacking, and Mortadella so good I kept sneaking bites from the friendly old Italian man running the slicer, as the rest of the group paid rapt attention to the guide.

The experience of this trip was a wonderful “gift” from my many hosts, and made me feel fortunate to be in the food biz. I met fascinating people, such as retailers Lou from New York, Sal from Philly, and Sasha from North Carolina, wholesalers like Gessie from LA, Joe from Portland, and Kim and Terry from Cleveland, along with many others. The host for the trip was my friend Cesare Gallo (and wife Palma), who is probably the most knowledgeable person on Italian food I’ve ever met, as well as hospitable and a blast to be around! It’s always nice to get something, but if you share it…all the better. At DLM, it’s our passion to bring you great food. And yes, while we make a buck at it, it really is a joy to bring back these kinds of interesting, storied foods to you. I hope you have as much fun trying them and sharing them with your friends and family.

Recla Speck Ham $21.99 lb save $4.00 lb
Crucolo Cheese $11.99 lb save $2.00 lb
Pinzolo Spressa Cheese $15.99 lb save $2.00 lb
Fontal Fiavé Cheese $7.99 lb save $2.00 lb
Turri DOP Olive Oil from Lago di Garda 500ml $19.99 save $5.00
Leoncini Cooked Ham $9.99 lb save $1.00 lb
Leoncini Mortadella $7.99 lb save $1.00 lb
Leoncini Porchetta $14.99 lb save $2.00 lb

*Italian acronym for Denominazione di Origine Protetta, signifying that all the oil in the bottle is certified to be from this distinct locale and meets high standards.

Department Features

Every month, we feature select items in our stores and provide you with detailed descriptions. Many are new items and/or on sale!

• Boston Stoker
• Wine
• Healthy Living
• School of Cooking

BOSTON STOKER

Boston Stoker Northern Italian Blend

Boston Stoker Northern Italian Blend
Don Dean and his fellow coffee lovers at Boston Stoker developed this blend, inspired by the smooth, flavorful coffee you get in northern Italy. It has become one of the favorite drip coffees at our in-store Boston Stoker Coffee Bars. But to me, it is even better for espresso. If you have an espresso maker at home, or a French press, give this a try. It’s meraviglioso! 1-lb pkg $8.95 save $2.84

WINE

Northern Italian Wines

Friuli — Ca’ Tullio Winery
From the Friuli-Aquileia D.O.C., where there is evidence of vine growing and winemaking dating back to 200 B.C., come two of our favorite wine values, Ca’ Tullio Pinot Grigio and Ca’ Tullio Cabernet Franc. The Pinot Grigio is a delicate straw color with crisp, bright tropical fruit nuances and clean finish; it’s perfect paired with light salads, or as an aperitif. The Cabernet Franc is dry and medium-bodied with hints of olive and herbs, and is incredible paired with roasted green peppers. $10.99

Veneto — Gini 2004 Soave Classico
The Veneto is the large winegrowing region in northern Italy whose capital is Venice, on the Adriatic Sea. Gini is made by Olinto Gini and his sons, Sandro, who primarily takes care of the cellar, and Claudio, who primarily works in the vineyard; and these gentlemen have reestablished Soave’s reputation as one of the finest white wines in Italy. The Gini Soave Classico, made from 100% Garganega, is rich and velvety with notes of cherry blossoms! Finishes quite dry. Pair with your favorite chicken or fish dishes. $14.99

Trentino-Alto Aldige — Filadonna 2004 Pinot Grigio
The Filadonna wines are produced by a union of small, highly-dedicated wine growers in the spectacular valley of the Aldige, a natural passage uniting the Germanic and Mediterranean worlds. The wines are made at Girlan, a tiny village overlooking the Adige River, in full view of the breath-taking Alpine Dolomite Mountains. This Pinot Grigio is crisp and vibrant yet has some “guts” to it, making it perfect with shellfish, gazpacho, or grilled shrimp. $12.99

Lagrein
This is a wonderfully bright and medium-bodied red wine from the Alto Aldige, made from the Lagrein grape that Calvin tasted and enjoyed on a recent trip to the Dolomites, and while we were hoping to have a tasty rendition of this obscure Italian varietal for this month’s northern Italy feature, it was not to be. However, look for this interesting, Beajolais-like wine to be in our stores by late fall!

HEALTHY LIVING

What's In a Name?

When you shop here at Dorothy Lane Market, I’m sure you’ve noticed our DLM “signature” products. From the Bakery to the Deli, from the Meat Department to the Wine Department, and throughout the Grocery aisles, you’ll find top-quality products that carry our name. We travel extensively and research these products very carefully, selecting only those that we feel measure up to the exceedingly high standards that our customers have come to associate with DLM.

In the Healthy Living Department, we are proud to offer DLM Brand nutritional supplements, including vitamins, minerals, herbs, protein powders, and a variety of other products. We’ve been using supplements at our house for many years, ever since my younger daughter developed an allergic reaction to antibiotics. The supplements we use seem to support our immune systems, as we’ve been able to avoid the yearly colds and flu bugs that plague us in the winter months. We never forget our daily multivitamin, just so we know we’ve covered our nutritional basics. So I think it’s important that, when we purchase a supplement, we can trust the name on the bottle and have confidence that the label facts are accurate. The supplier of our DLM Brand supplements has been in business for over 80 years. They actually began hand-encapsulating dried vegetables in 1925!

The facility that manufactures DLM supplements is pharmaceutically registered by the FDA, meaning the standards are such that it could legally produce pharmaceuticals. The company has also earned an “A” rating from the National Nutritional Foods Association for its GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices). Every raw material that’s used is analyzed to meet specific predetermined requirements. Microbiological analysis ensures the absence of bacteria, yeast, and molds. The weight of each ingredient is double-checked, using a specific weighing system to eliminate mixing errors. Equipment cleaning and inspection is required prior to the start of any blending, milling, drying, or coating process. Every supplement is chronologically tracked through each step of production to provide a reference record for any possible problems. Samples from each “lot” of finished product are tested again for label accuracy and retained for a minimum of five years, just in case there might be a question about any particular product or ingredient. Finally, each product (except the protein powders) is packed in amber glass bottles for freshness, and each label discloses every ingredient in the product. And our supplier has never had a recall on any ingredient in any product!

Now you can understand why we chose the products of this particular supplier to carry the DLM name. We are confident that it matches the high level of integrity of the other name brands of supplements you’ll find in the Healthy Living Department. For our customers, this means quality, potency, purity, and value.

In the end, nutritional supplements are just that: supplemental. Nothing replaces a healthful diet of whole, real food. But in a hectic and busy world, it’s comforting to know that we have the highest quality nutritional supplements that the natural products industry has to offer. In fact, we stake our name on it!

Our entire line of DLM Brand nutritional supplements will be at a 40% savings during the month of September. Choose from a variety of multivitamins, or stock up on vitamin C for the winter. You’ll find some new products, including a liquid calcium/magnesium, perfect for the person who has trouble swallowing the larger tablets. We introduced the DLM liquid herbal extracts a couple of months ago, and they’ve become very popular with folks looking for over-the-counter alternatives. So stop by, browse the line, and feel free to ask questions. We’re here to serve you…it’s our pleasure!

For more information, contact:
Joy Kemp (937) 748-6800 (Springboro)
Lori Kelch (937) 434-1294 (Washington Square)

Eat Real Food (Part 5)

Chapter 2 of the 2005 Dietary Guidelines for Americans released in January is entitled “Adequate Nutrients Within Calorie Needs”. Many Americans consume more calories than they need without meeting recommended intakes for a number of nutrients. The term “Nutrient-Dense Foods” is defined as those foods that provide substantial amounts of vitamins and minerals (micronutrients) and relatively few calories. Foods that are low in nutrient density are foods that supply calories but relatively small amounts of micronutrients, if any at all. Examples are foods such as donuts and cookies. The greater consumption of foods and beverages that are low in nutrient density, the more difficult it is to consume enough nutrients without gaining weight, especially for sedentary individuals.

One category of nutrient-dense foods is legumes (e.g. dried beans, peas, and lentils), which are considered part of both the vegetable group and the meat and beans group, as they contain nutrients found in each of these groups. Legumes are especially rich in fiber and are good sources of potassium and folate, as well as excellent low-fat protein sources. In the USDA Food Guide at the reference 2000-calorie level, the recommendation is to consume 3 cups of legumes per week. To incorporate beans in your diet, try the Gigandes (Giant Beans) in our Gourmet Takeaway Department. They are delicious warmed or at room temperature.

SCHOOL OF COOKING

Fall Registration Now Available

Visit our site for a complete list of classes!

Club DLM card is required for all sale prices. Prices herein are valid through August 31, 2005. In the event of a typographical error, in-store prices will prevail. All sale items are limit five with Club DLM card.

Recipes

For a printable version of the recipes listed below, click here.

Caramelized Black Bean “Butter”
(We were pleasantly surprised by the sweetness from the onions. So often black bean spreads are spicy.)

• 1 Tbsp Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
• 4 cups chopped onion
• 2 15-oz cans black beans, rinsed and drained
• 1 Tbsp Aunt Angie’s Balsamic Vinegar of Modena
• 2 tsp unsweetened cocoa
• ½ tsp sea salt
• ½ tsp paprika
• 1 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion; sauté 10 minutes or until golden. Place onions, beans, vinegar, cocoa, salt, and paprika in a food processor; process until smooth. Place bean mixture in a bowl. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 3 cups (24 servings)

Per 2-Tbsp serving: 46 calories (18% calories from fat); 1g total fat; 0g saturated fat; 0mg cholesterol; 158mg sodium; 7g total carbohydrates; 2g protein

Red-Red Bean Spread

• 2 red bell peppers
• 15-oz can kidney beans, drained and rinsed
• 2 Tbsp tomato paste
• ½ tsp sea salt
• ½ tsp grated lemon rind
• ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• Dash of ground red pepper

Preheat broiler.

Cut bell peppers in half lengthwise; discard seeds and membranes. Place pepper halves, skin side up, on a foil-lined baking sheet; flatten with hand. Broil 10 minutes or until blackened. Place peppers in a zip-top plastic bag; seal. Let stand 5 minutes. Remove blackened skins and chop peppers. (Or substitute 1½ cups chopped bottled roasted bell pepper.) Place bell peppers and remaining ingredients in a food processor, and process until smooth. Makes 1½ cups (12 servings)

Per 2-Tbsp serving: 38 calories (4% calories from fat); < 1g total fat; 0g saturated fat; 0mg cholesterol; 174mg sodium; 7g total carbohydrates; 2g protein

DLM School of Cooking Favorite!
Fusilli with Ragù Sauce
This meat Bolognese sauce with its irresistible aroma is a family favorite at our home. It’s a bit time consuming, but easy to make – perfect for a Sunday afternoon. Usually I make a double batch and freeze half. Sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated up to three days. Add a couple of tablespoons of water when reheating.

• 3 Tbsp Vera Jane's Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
• 5 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided
• 2 Tbsp finely chopped sweet onion
• 2 Tbsp diced carrot
• 2 Tbsp diced celery
• 1 lb lean ground beef
• 1 tsp kosher salt
• 1 cup dry white wine
• ½ cup whole milk
• 1/8 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
• 28 oz can whole peeled tomatoes with their juice, coarsely chopped
• ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
• 1 lb of fusilli pasta

Put the olive oil, 3 tablespoons of butter, and all the onion in a heavy deep saucepan over medium heat, and sauté until the onion has turned a light golden color. Add the carrot and celery and continue sautéing until they begin to change color. Add the beef, breaking it up with a wooden spoon. Add salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is just browned. Add the wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until it has completely evaporated. Add the milk and nutmeg and continue to cook, stirring until most of the milk has evaporated. Add the tomatoes, stir, and once they start to bubble, turn the heat to very low. Simmer uncovered for at least 3 hours, stirring occasionally.

Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and the pasta, stir well, and cook until al dente. Drain (do not rinse) and toss with the hot or re-heated sauce, the remaining butter, and the freshly grated cheese. Taste for salt. Garnish with additional grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and serve at once. Also good with tagliatelle, rigatoni, and pappardelle pasta. Makes 4 servings

DLM School of Cooking Favorite!
Chocolate Espresso Torte
This decadent dessert was deemed a School of Cooking class favorite during David Glynn’s A Day in the Kitchen class last spring.

• 1 cup light brown sugar
• 1 lb unsalted butter
• 1 cup freshly brewed strong espresso
• 12 oz best quality semi-sweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
• 4 oz best quality bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
• 8 large eggs
• Sweetened whipped cream

Pre-heat oven to 325° F. Line a 9-inch cheesecake pan or springform pan with parchment paper and lightly butter or spray with non-stick vegetable oil.

Combine the brown sugar, butter, and espresso in a sauce pan over medium-low heat until sugar is dissolved and butter is melted. Add the chocolate and slowly melt completely.

In a bowl, whisk together the eggs until combined. Whisk about ½ cup of the melted chocolate mixture into the eggs and whisk until blended. Return this mixture to saucepan of remaining chocolate. Then add remaining egg mixture in a stream, whisking constantly.

Bake in a bain-marie (the water bath should be hot) for 45 minutes. Check torte after 30 minutes to make sure the top isn’t cracking….that’s a sign it’s done!

Allow to cool on a rack and then place in the refrigerator to chill. When ready to serve, remove from pan and cut into slices. Garnish with a dollop of sweetened whipped cream and enjoy. Makes 10 to 12 servings

Throughout the month of September, each time you use your Club DLM card you will be given a chance to win...

• Three One-Half Hour Private Lessons at Always Ballroom Dance Studio (value $125)
• $100 Gift Card to the Montgomery Inn
• One Free Cooking Class from DLM’s School of Cooking (value up to $65.00)
  

One set of prizes will be awarded at each store location unless otherwise specified. No purchase necessary to enter.