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February 2005 Market
Report [click
for PDF]
Department Features -
Recipes - Monthly
Prizes
For past issues of
the Market Report, visit our Market
Report Archive!
Eat Italian, Get Happy
Mention Italian food and the first thing
you think of is pasta. It’s only natural. Who of us
didn’t love eating Italian growing up because it meant
a big helping of “bascetti” when we were kids?
Yes, to be sure, pasta is ubiquitous in Italy, and we carry
some excellent ones for you to enjoy. Few foods match the
simplicity and comfort of a steaming plate of pasta combined
with a well-made tomato sauce or a generous drizzle of flavorful
extra-virgin olive oil and some fresh grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
I think of the lip-smacking lasagna with glistening green
noodles I had in a bustling, but decidedly non-fancy restaurant
in Bologna, the birthplace of lasagna. Also, there was that
bowl of tagliatelle with slowly marinated duck in Arezzo,
Tuscany. Mmmm.
Having said that, however, when you visit Italy, you quickly
find that pasta is usually a side dish. There is much more
to la cucina Italiana. Why may you too want to move your horizons
beyond that plate of penne? One reason is that there is so
much more to experience. Further, if you happen to be a carbophobe
and are consequently cutting out “Italian”, you
can eat well and still eat Italian outside of spaghetti. Italians
I know have, what seems to me, a very diverse and healthy
diet. Depending on the region and time of year, Italian cuisine
means abundant fresh fruits and vegetables, fish and other
seafood, legumes, rice, polenta (corn), and well-prepared
meats: from beef, pork, and chicken to wild boar, lamb, and
rabbit. And it’s all accented with innumerable cheeses,
cured meats (think Prosciutto and salami), olive oils, vinegars,
and wines. Even the sea salt from Italy is special. I’m
getting hungry. If your mouth is watering too, come in and
pick up some of the Italian specialties we have highlighted
this month. We are sure that all this good food will bring
you molto piacere! 
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| Winter 2005 Harvest of
Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
If you love good oil, then you must try our
own Vera Jane’s from Tuscany, and please do so soon!
Why? Because we have just received our first shipment of this
winter’s harvest. Right now our best selling Vera Jane’s
is at its freshest of the year...in all its cloudy, fruity,
peppery Tuscan glory. Short of drinking it straight out of
the bottle, add this flavorful, healthy oil to all sorts of
your winter dishes. Enjoy it drizzled over meats, steamed
greens, or squash. Toss it with pasta, drizzle it in soups,
and put out a bowl of it at the dinner table with a little
sea salt and fresh ground pepper for bread dipping. Pick up
a few bottles soon at this special price! 500 ml bottle $10.99
save $1.00 Limit 3 bottles please!
Department
Features
Every month, we feature select items in our
stores and provide you with detailed descriptions. Many are
new items and/or on sale!
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| Unibon Prosciutto
di Parma
Few foods are as original, simple, and as flavorful on their
own as genuine Prosciutto di Parma (ham from Parma). The region
of Parma, in the mid-northern part of Italy, has been producing
great ham for a long time, centuries in fact. While we can’t
go into the history of the product here, you would have to
agree that a food, or any other product for that matter, produced
in the same place for that long must have a rich tradition,
and must be very special. Taste a slice of Prosciutto di Parma,
and as your eyes roll back in your head from the sheer pleasure
of taste, you realize that it is indeed an extraordinary food.
What makes it so? A group of us collected a few clues on
a trip through the plant of our Prosciutto supplier, Unibon.
First we learned that carefully selected breeds of pigs are
raised to make the ham. Years ago, producers of the ham discovered
that an excellent feed for the pigs was the by-product of
another famous food produced nearby: Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
The pigs love the protein-rich whey, and serendipitously this
by-product (whey) contributes to the flavor of the ham. The
diet is also supplemented with cereals that help to naturally
fatten up the animal.
Once the leg of pork arrives at the Unibon plant, it begins
its journey through various stages of salting and aging under
strict humidity and temperature control. You see on the tour
that transforming a leg of pork into Prosciutto di Parma is
a carefully mapped journey. We learned how all impurities
are drawn out of the meat during the 400-day salting and curing
process. The only ingredient ever added to the ham is sea
salt—period. Nitrates? Nitrites? Zip! Nothing of the
sort ever touches real Prosciutto di Parma. In the world of
meat products, this ham is as clean and pure as it gets. At
the end of the curing process, the consortium (cooperative)
inspects each ham, and if the ham passes inspection, they
stamp it with the distinctive ducal crown that officially
and proudly identifies the ham as Prosciutto di Parma.
As for Unibon, it is the largest producer of genuine Prosciutto
di Parma, and yet it is difficult to get it here in the U.S.
No matter to us…we fell in love with it in Italy, and
found a way to bring it here. We have carried real Prosciutto
di Parma for several years, but we think Unibon is the best.
Ask us for a sample, and pick some up soon. Try it alone,
on sandwiches, in stuffing, on pizza, and other ways. To best
enjoy it as is, ask us to slice it paper-thin for you. Allow
it to come to room temperature just before you eat it, when
the fat starts to glisten. Savor the aroma as you would with
a fine wine. Then slowly chew it and let the flavors roll
around your palette. Come to our Deli, ask for Unibon Prosciutto
di Parma, and have a taste of la vita bella! $19.99 lb save
$2.00 lb
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| Molinari Salami
I don’t eat salami, neither would I recommend it to
you. Let me be more specific. I don’t like mass-produced
supermarket salami. But traditional salami from Italy? Now
you’re talking. I would eat them all the time, but I
don’t live in Italy. You see, to have real Italian salami,
you have to go to Italy, since it is illegal to import it
here. Last night I was in Middletown at my friend Chip’s
house, and as he cooked up some fantastic cannelloni, his
wife, my sister and brother-in-law, and I sipped a little
Montepulciano and munched on chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano,
DLM Paesano Bread, and thin slices of . . . guess what? .
. . salami! Before you think I’m contradicting myself,
let me explain.
The salami, or better said, “salame”* in question
was Molinari Sopressata. And why was I eating it? Molinari
is one of a handful of U.S. producers of traditional Italian-style
salami. What is different about Molinari, compared to the
greasy supermarket stuff? Molinari is a small family operation
that uses traditional methods. The key step in the manufacture
is slow natural dry curing. After blending the meats and spices,
and stuffing them into casings, the salami are hung by strings
and allowed to naturally cure for about 4 weeks. During this
time, a white mold forms on the outside, and the meat, spices,
and natural mold go to work developing the complex flavors
inside. This aging process is akin to how wine develops in
the barrel. You can quickly tell a traditionally-made salame
by its shape. It will be cylindrical, yet a little fatter
at one end, the result of the effect of gravity during the
curing process.
How do Molinari salami taste? Compared to the one-dimensional
salami of a typical supermarket, Molinari salami have a complexity
of salty, sweet, and musty aromas and flavors.It simply has
more chararcter. Give Molinari a try and you will see what
I mean. Simply take a sharp knife, score around the salame,
peel off the casing and mold, and slice thin. It goes well
with fruit, cheese, crusty bread—and friends. We are
pleased to bring you several varieties, such as Sopressata,
Salametti, Finocchiona, Italian Dry Small Salame, and Toscano
Style Dry Salame. Try them all for a real Italian flavor experience.
10% off all Molinari Salami
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| February Wines
Antinori 2003 Campogrande Orvieto
From the southwestern part of Umbria, this wine is as vivid
as it is dry, and is the ultimate delicate fish dish wine!
$12.99
Le Corti 2002 Chianti Classico
A great nose! This wine exudes Tuscan earth and sun! A bold,
rich blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo with tons of deep cherry
and raspberry fruit, with hints of violet and soft approachable
tannins in the finish. Try paired with du Breton herb-crusted
pork medallions for a real treat. $18.99
Altare 2003 Barbera d’Alba
Elio Altare is universally acknowledged as one of the world’s
greatest winemakers and his tiny vineyard in the La Morra
region of Piedmont is a blessed, sheltered horseshoe-shaped
perch with southeastern exposure. His Barbera d’ Alba
is immensely rich and well-developed, with layers of ripe
fruit, herb, and oak, due to aging in small French oak barrels.
$19.99
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| Riedel Sale
Professor Claus Josef Riedel was the first designer to recognize
that the bouquet, taste, balance, and finish of wines are
affected by the glass shape. He began his pioneering work
almost forty years ago to create stemware which matched and
complemented different wines and spirits.
You don’t have to be a wine writer, a winemaker, or
an expert to taste the difference Riedel can make. We invite
you to share this fascinating and unique experience. $29.99
Chianti Vinum two pack, save $10.00 
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| Paesano Bread
One of the fun things about our way of eating Italian is
bread dipping. Somewhat surprisingly, Italians I know don’t
do it as much; most do not have access to great bread, with
a few notable exceptions. Our hand-made Paesano Bread is one
I think you will love. The Italian word “paese”
translates as “country.” “Paesano”
therefore roughly translates as “hometown friend”,
“buddy”, or even “good ol’ boy”,
if you will. This style of bread originates from Puglia (the
heel of the “boot”). This part of Italy, as my
Pugliese friend Armando often reminds me, is a place of unspoiled,
unpretentious, yet great food tradition. Our Paesano Bread
is another hand-crafted bread that our Artisan Bakers produce
using traditional methods. From start to finish, it takes
two days to produce a batch of this great bread. It is unique.
First, its shape is round and puffy-looking; it looks like
a big mushroom cap. It also has a totally different texture
and flavor from many of our other Artisan breads. Its crust
is thin, yet still chewy, similar to a well-made hand-tossed
thin pizza crust. And the fragrant interior has lots of holes
and a savory, slightly musty flavor. So how do you enjoy Paesano?
Sandwiches? Nope. Sliced and toasted? Not that either. What
Paesano is best for is dipping. In fact, it’s the ultimate
dipping bread. It’s made for setting in front of a convivial
group at the dinner table, ready for tearing off in chunks
and dipping in olive oil, tomato sauce, meat drippings, etc.
It goes equally well with a hearty roast or a simple meal
of hot pasta and sauce. Pick up a loaf for tonight and tear
it up with a few hungry friends. $2.99/loaf save $1.00
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| The Softer Side of
Italy
Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino-Romano, the grated cheese you
sprinkle on spaghetti…these are all Italian cheeses,
but did you know that Italy also produces some of the best
soft cheeses? Soft, spreadable, buttery, and fruity all describe
some of the wonderful soft cheeses that come out of Italy.
I want to introduce you to three of my favorites, all for
different reasons.
Taleggio. Need I say more? Well, I will. Taleggio is the
softest, creamiest member of the famous Italian Stracchino
cheeses. Taleggio was first made in the valley of the same
name, located in the historic province of Bergamo. Its rough,
rosy crust (inedible), pale yellow interior, and rich and
buttery, fruity, slightly salty flavor are what give Taleggio
its individuality. Taleggio’s soft, incredibly flavorful
interior is creamy in texture and has a pungent aroma. The
cheese imparts the essence of the Italian countryside in such
a way that you could swear you were sitting among the cows
on a grassy hillside in Lombardy. $10.99 lb save $1.50 lb
Asiago Fresco. A fresh, sweet, cow’s milk cheese from
Asiago. It originated in the village of Asiago in northern
Veneto, where it has been made for centuries. Although it
was originally made with sheep’s milk, it is now made
with cow’s milk. Fresco means “fresh” or
“young”, which means this Asiago has been aged
for only a few weeks (as opposed to aged Asiago’s six
to seven months). This sweet and tangy semisoft cow’s
milk cheese has a slightly salty aftertaste. It is firm in
texture, easy to cut, and pairs wonderfully with salami and
crusty bread. Try it sliced or cubed into salads, and sliced
or melted onto sandwiches. $8.99 lb save $1.00 lb
Gogonzola Dolce. From Italy’s Lombardy region comes
the most imitated blue cheese in the world. Many cheeses falsely
claim to be Gorgonzola, but they always leave you singing
the blues. Authentic Italian Gorgonzola comes in two varieties:
Dolce, meaning sweet, and Mountain - the sharper and firmer
version. Dating back to ancient times, this member of the
Stracchino family is one of the world’s classic cheeses.
Almost spreadable, Gorgonzola dolce is the younger, milder,
creamier version that cheese aficionados love to scorn. Gorgonzola
dolce is supple and luxurious, with an unmistakable tangy
creaminess. Its pale white interior is laced with streaks
of blue, giving Gorgonzola dolce a striking appearance to
match its piquant flavor. Like White Zinfandel, Gorgonzola
dolce is approachable, not particularly complex, and easy
to like. Some would call it a starter cheese, an entry point
for novices who, the theory goes, will eventually progress
to serious Gorgonzola. Enjoy Gorgonzola dolce as a table cheese,
spread thickly on a piece of crusty baguette, or as an ingredient
in your favorite salad dressing. $9.99 lb save $2.50 lb
So, as you can see, there is definitely a softer (not to
mention delicious) side to Italian Cheeses. So try some today! -Randy
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| Aromatherapy for Health
and Wellness
The Healthy Living Department at our Washington Square store,
where I perform my duties, is located directly in front of
our Chef’s Express kitchen. Now that, in and of itself,
is no big deal…until they start frying our DLM bacon!
That wonderful smell penetrates my department, and my nose,
totally distracting me from my work. My mind wanders back
to Christmas mornings when I was young. After Mom fried up
loads of bacon for the family, our house carried that wonderful
smell all day long. And then there’s Boston Stoker in
front of my department. Omigosh! I think the scent of freshly
ground coffee beans actually lifts my mood, giving me a sense
of warmth and comfort.
We all encounter scents and odors every day that provoke
a reaction. They may stimulate emotions, memories, and even
physical sensations. For me, for example, the smell of diesel
fuel takes me back to weekend ski trips in junior high when
we traveled by bus to the mountains in upstate New York. The
skiing was great, but I’m one of those queasy road travelers
and, even years later, the smell of diesel still stimulates
that queasiness. Our noses can tell us what our eyes may not,
from the mouth-watering fragrance of chocolate chip cookies
baking, to the alerting odor of a fire brewing.
Our sense of smell is, in fact, more refined than our vision
and hearing, although as humans we rely on it much less than
animals do. But humans are capable of differentiating thousands
of smells, and remembering them. The olfactory nerve ends
directly in the higher centers of the brain, which, according
to research, connects our instincts with our conceptual thinking,
memory, and emotions. This may explain the fact that smells
can influence us physically and emotionally.
And herein lies the foundation of aromatherapy. Aromatherapy
is the use of the essential oil of plants for therapeutic
purposes. Each essential oil has its own characteristic aroma
and profile of therapeutic properties. These oils are primarily
contained in the flowers and leaves of the plant, but may
also be found in the fruit, bark, seeds, or roots. The essential
oils are formed with the help of solar energy acting on the
plant’s secretory cells. The plant keeps the oil in
tiny glandular pockets which burst open, for example, when
a leaf is rubbed. Oils can be extracted from plants in several
ways, but steam distillation is the most common.
Like most complementary therapies, aromatherapy works on
the whole body to improve general health and well-being. Some
oils are soothing and relaxing, others stimulating and invigorating.
Essential oils can be used to lift depression, reduce anxiety,
or enhance mental clarity. They can possess anti-inflammatory
or antibacterial properties. They can promote digestion, relieve
headache or pain, and reduce symptoms of common infections
such as colds or flus. Some oils can also be used topically
for skin conditions, but should be diluted with a “carrier”
oil (like jojoba), as their high concentration may cause irritation.
Essential oils, as a rule, are not recommended for internal
use.
To learn the correct use of essential oils in health and
healing, please join us as we welcome Patti McCormick, RN,
Ph.D., to our Springboro location on Tuesday, February 8th
from 7:00 to 9:00 p.m. Dr. McCormick is the founder and past
president of the Ohio Academy of Holistic Health and has been
involved in holistic education since 1978. She has served
as a specialist in the field of integrating holistic care
into various industries such as educational, corporate, and
medical. Dr. McCormick also serves as a consultant to a variety
of companies and medical facilities on the implementation
of protocols for the safe and appropriate use of aromatherapy
within specialty settings.
The cost is $10.00 and each participant will receive a gift
bag which includes a coupon to the Healthy Living Department.
Registration is required as seating is limited. 
Register
Online!
For more information, contact:
Joy Kemp (937) 748-6800 (Springboro)
Lori Kelch (937) 434-1294 (Washington Square)
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| February Class List
Eating Well — Naturally!
Learn nutrition basics through whole-food cooking.
It’s a Guy Thing! — For Men Only
Find yourself all alone in the kitchen? Just you, the cat,
and the frozen dinner? Then this is the class for you!
Dim Sum & Chinese Appetizers
Discover how easy it is to make dim sum and other popular
Chinese appetizers.
All About: Simple Pan Sauces
Simple pan sauces are easy to make by deglazing the pan with
wines and vinegars.
Provençal Party Fare
Affordable French wine and party appetizers.
February Couples
Cook together as a couple while preparing an elegant 5-course
dinner party menu.
Soup Party!
Stir up some fun at a casual party perfect for cold winter
entertaining!
Bread Basics: Breakfast Breads —
Coffee Cake & Rolls
Bring your apron, roll-up your sleeves, and dig right into
our flour canister!
A Day in the Kitchen
An exceptional opportunity to work side-by-side with chefs
from Eclipse and the Blue Moon.
All About: Pasta
How to properly cook pasta and pair shapes and sauces for
best results.
Seafood Basics
Basic skills for selecting and preparing various fish and
shellfish.
All About: Vegetables
Basic preparation of fresh vegetables and best cooking techniques
for optimal results.
Check out the School
of Cooking page to register, or for a complete list of
all Winter/Spring Classes!
Club DLM card is required for all sale
prices. Prices herein are valid through February 28, 2005.
In the event of a typographical error, in-store prices will
prevail. All sale items are limit five with Club DLM card.
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| Recipes
For a printable version of the recipes listed
below, click here.
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| Tom Valenti’s
Lamb Shanks
From his book, Welcome to my Kitchen
- 6 lamb shanks
- 8 whole black peppercorns
- Sea salt and pepper, to taste
- 3 anchovy fillets
- ¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin
Olive Oil
- 1 whole head garlic, cut in half crosswise
- 2 cups red wine
- 3 cups mirepoix (about 1 lb) available in Produce (celery,
carrots, and onions combined)
- 1 cup white wine
- 1/3 cup white wine vinegar
- 1/3 cup tomato paste
- 1 tsp sugar
- 5 sprigs fresh thyme
- 2 cups beef broth
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 cups chicken broth
Preheat oven to 325ºF. Season lamb with salt and pepper.
Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a large pot over medium-high
heat. Add lamb shanks and brown well on all sides, using tongs
to turn them. Remove shanks to a roasting pan. Add remaining
3 tablespoons of oil to the pot. Add mirepoix; cook until
very soft, 8-10 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook 1 to 2
minutes. Add the thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, anchovies,
and garlic; cook 3 minutes.
Add the wines, vinegar, and sugar; raise heat to high and
bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium, add the broths, and
continue cooking for about 15 minutes. Pour this braising
liquid over the lamb shanks. Cover with foil and cook in the
preheated oven for 1 hour. Remove foil and cook 2 ½
to 3 hours more, turning shanks over every half-hour until
the meat is very tender.
Remove the shanks from the braising liquid and strain the
liquid. Skim any fat that rises to the surface, then use liquid
as a sauce. (For a thicker sauce, cook skimmed sauce over
medium heat until reduced to desired consistency). Serve lamb
shanks in shallow bowls atop White Bean Puree (recipe follows)
or mashed potatoes, passing sauce separately. Makes 6 servings
Per serving: 846 calories (53% calories from fat); 49g
total fat; 15g saturated fat; 244mg cholesterol; 940mg sodium;
11g carbohydrates; 68g protein
White Bean Puree
- (2) 12-oz jars pea beans (or 2 15-oz cans navy beans)
- Sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, to taste
- Fresh basil, chopped
- Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
- Chicken Broth
Drain beans and mash them. Season with salt, pepper, and
basil. Drizzle with olive oil. Heat gently, thin with chicken
broth to desired consistency. Makes 6 servings
Why not start the meal with Classic Bruschetta?
(pronounced broo-SKEH-tah)
The Italian method is quite simple. Start with a loaf of
our Classic Italian bread. Cut it at home into thick slices
(at least ¾-inch). Grill the bread in a grill pan or
an outdoor grill on both sides until the lines of the grill
are visibly dark. Rub the cut side of a garlic clove several
times over the grilled bread and drizzle with good quality
olive oil. Sprinkle with a pinch of sea salt. Buon Appetito!
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| DLM
School of Cooking Favorite!
Eggplant Rollatini
This do-ahead recipe from Chef David Glynn is a decided
favorite! An outstanding teacher and chef, be sure to check
out his upcoming A Day in the Kitchen class on our April schedule.
- Olive oil for sautéing
- 2 Tbsp fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
- 1½ pounds eggplant, peeled and sliced lengthwise
into (12) ¼-inch slices
- 2 Tbsp dry sherry
- 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Romano cheese
- 4 large eggs, beaten
- 2 cups flour seasoned with salt and pepper
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 3/4 cup ricotta cheese
- 12 thin slices of Provolone cheese
- 1 tsp onion powder
- 1/2 lb fettuccini, cooked and drained
- 1½ tsp garlic powder
- 2 cups marinara sauce (recipe follows)
- 1 Tbsp chives, chopped
- 1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
Preheat oven to 375° F.
Heat oil in large sauté pan. Dip eggplant slices in
seasoned flour and then into the egg mixture. Immediately
place into skillet and brown on both sides until golden. Remove
from skillet and place on baking sheets lined with paper towels
until cool enough to handle.
Combine ricotta, onion and garlic powders, chives, parsley,
sherry, and all but 1 tablespoon of Parmigiano-Reggiano or
Romano. Mix well and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Place a slice of provolone on top of the eggplant. Place
a generous tablespoon of the ricotta mixture at the widest
short end of the eggplant. Roll the eggplant up like a cigar.
Repeat with remaining slices.
Place eggplant over fettuccini in a 9 x 13 inch glass or
ceramic baking dish. Top with marinara sauce and sprinkle
with shredded mozzarella cheese. Garnish with remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano
or Romano. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until bubbly –
cheeses should be well-melted and golden brown. Makes 6 servings
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| DLM
School of Cooking Favorite!
Marinara Sauce
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 to 4 Tbsp sugar
- 1/2 cup chopped onion
- 12 oz tomato paste
- 1/2 cup chopped green pepper
- 1/2 cup dry red wine
- 1½ Tbsp finely chopped garlic
- 28 oz tomato sauce
- 2 Tbsp finely chopped flat leaf parsley
- 28 oz crushed tomatoes
- 3 Tbsp finely chopped fresh basil
- 1/2 cup water
- 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh oregano
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat olive oil in a large heavy pan. Sauté onion,
green pepper, and garlic until soft. Add herbs and 2 tablespoons
sugar. Add tomato paste and cook for 3 minutes, stirring.
Add wine and simmer for 2 minutes, stirring. Add remaining
tomato products and water. Season to taste with salt, freshly
ground pepper, and remaining sugar. Cook slowly for 20 minutes,
stirring occasionally.
Reserve 2 cups sauce for recipe. Freeze remaining sauce for
later use. Makes 8 cups.
Timesaving Tip: Baking the eggplant slices is more convenient
than sautéing and the slices will absorb less oil.
Follow these simple directions.
Preheat oven to 375° F. Line baking sheets with parchment
paper. Peel eggplant and slice lengthwise into (12) ¼-inch
slices. Arrange slices in a single layer on prepared baking
sheets and lightly rub with olive oil (about 3 Tbsp per 1½
lbs of eggplant). Bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from oven
and set aside until cool enough to handle.
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| Monthly
Prizes Throughout
the month of February, each time you use your Club DLM card
you will be given a chance to win...
- $60 Gift Certificate to Lincoln Park Grille
- St. Patrick’s Day Basket (value $50.00)
- Half Heavenly Ham® (value $45.00)
One set of prizes will
be awarded at each store location
unless otherwise specified. No purchase necessary to enter. |
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