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July 2004 Market Report
[click for PDF]
Department Features -
Recipes - Monthly
Prizes
For past issues of
the Market Report, visit our Market
Report Archive!
First Annual Peach Party
at DLM!
José Manzano has been in the produce
biz for decades, and he still gets excited about finding great
fruits and veggies. Right now he’s soaring. Why? He
just got off a plane from California, from a trip to Gerawan
Farms, owners of the Prima® brand of peaches. He was impressed,
better yet…blown away by what he saw. He boasts that
this is some of the best fruit he’s ever seen in his
decades as Produce Director. These peaches from the fertile
San Joaquin Valley are so beautiful, so juicy, and so flavorful,
that we decided to throw a party to celebrate! Hence, we invite
you to the First Annual DLM Peach Party.
Not only did José see hundreds of acres of orchards,
he witnessed a fanaticism for quality unmatched in the growing
of peaches and other stone fruits. To give you an idea of
the quality difference, I asked José to first describe
how conventional peaches are handled. He related how, for
example, most packers go through an orchard three times looking
for fruit that’s ready. On the last pass, they will
pick all that’s left, ripe or not. The fruit is put
into large bins that weigh up to 1000 lbs. From there, the
fruit gets hydro-cooled (quickly cooled but sometimes harms
the fruit), sorted, packed into boxes, and shipped around
the country. Because the fruit is put into large bins, it
has to be picked, as you can imagine, quite green to withstand
getting piled so high. Finally the fruit is subjected to bruising
bumping into other fruit in the box, and again when it’s
dumped on a display in a typical store.
José’s trip to the growers of Prima revealed
significant differences. On his first day, he was touring
an orchard with his guide, Jerry, just after a picking crew
had passed through. Looking up and seeing what looked like
a perfectly ripe peach, José inquired as to why it
was missed. Jerry said it was left behind on purpose. The
pickers at Prima, you see, hand select fruit only when its
color and sheen are peak, and not before. To get peak fruit,
they will pass through the same orchard, not just three, but
eight to ten times harvesting fruit that is in peak condition.
The longer a peach remains on the tree, the higher the sugar
content and the better the flavor. Once each Prima peach is
hand selected, the picker places it into a small rounded-bottom
bucket. This special small bucket further protects the fruit
from bruising. Prima Peaches never see the infamous 1/2-ton
bin.
Once at the plant, Prima peaches are minimally and carefully
handled. First they are slowly cooled, not hydro-cooled like
their unfortunate counterparts, while still in the small harvest
buckets. Next they are gently placed on a slowly moving belt.
The belt passes under a device that uses light to measure
the
brix (sugar content) of each fruit. Those with the highest
brix of over 13 are separated and hand-packed one by one in
protective boxes that coddle each individual peach. These
very special peaches, designated Taste Mark, are sent to Dorothy
Lane Market and only a couple of other privileged retailers
(such as our friends at Wegmans in upstate New York).
OK, so the Prima Taste Mark peach is coddled and measured,
but why should you care? Wait till you taste one! The peaches
we are featuring for the DLM Peach Party are certifiably sweeter,
more flavorful peaches. Not only does Prima sort and measure
their already premium crop, we do the same at DLM by means
of a tool called a refractometer. Each of our produce managers
has such a sweetness-measuring device. With this device, we
can daily measure the brix level of the fruit. Remember, more
brix means more sugar which means more flavor. To give you
an idea of the difference, the brix of peaches sold at most
places can hover around the 10 range, whereas our Taste Mark
peach comes in at 13 to 16, and higher!
Look for our “DLM Peach Party” displays where
you will find samples, signage showing daily brix measurements,
and plentiful fresh peaches too good to resist. We will also
keep you posted daily as to where the peaches come from as
well as the variety. For this party, only peaches with a brix
of 13 or higher are allowed in. We guarantee you will love
them all. You’re invited, so come to the party—and
sink your teeth into a juicy sweet peach.
Choosing and Caring for Peaches
- Choose peaches that show a background of color; red or
creamy with a rosy blush on their cheeks.
- Look for smooth, unwrinkled skin and no blemishes, bruises,
or tan circles (early sign of decay).
- Choose peaches that give slightly at the seam when pressed
with your thumb, even though the rest of the peach is firm.
- Sniff the stem end of the peach. You should be able to
smell the peachy fragrance.
- Leave peaches at room temperature a day or two to soften
on the counter or in a paper bag. Peaches are highly perishable,
so don’t buy more than you plan to use.
- You can store ripe peaches in the refrigerator. They
will keep for 3 to
5 days. Keep in mind that ripe peaches taste best when they’re
eaten at room temperature. So take them out of the fridge
one hour before eating.
- Before eating, wash peaches carefully in cool soapy water,
then rinse well. If you want to peel them, simply blanch
them in boiling water for a minute then plunge into ice
water to cool. For fruit salads or platters, sprinkle cut
peaches with lemon juice to help them keep their great color.
Department
Features
Every month, we feature select items in our
stores and provide you with detailed descriptions. Many are
new items and/or on sale!
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| Barbecue: Slow Cooking
for Maximum Flavor
Ask anyone around here what they will be doing on the 4th
of July, and 9 out of 10 will tell you they are having or
attending a “barbecue.” Ask a Southerner the same
thing and you are likely to get a similar response. That said,
if you attended both barbecues, you would probably be amazed
at the differences.
The etymology of the term “barbecue” is vague.
The most plausible theory states that it bears its origin
from the West Indian term “barbacoa,” which denotes
a method of slow-cooking over hot coals. Some claim it comes
from the French phrase “barbe a queue” meaning
“from head to tail.” Bon Appetit lightheartedly
tells us the word comes from an extinct tribe in Guyana who
enjoyed “cheerfully spit-roasting captured enemies.”
Hmmm. Makes you wonder why they are extinct. Regardless of
its origin, we can all agree that barbecuing is a sure-fire
way to get a party going with family and friends.
Barbecue is a Southern cultural icon. The American tradition
of barbecue originated in colonial days and was entrenched
in the south fifty years before the Civil War. Pigs were a
source of low-maintenance food. They happily rooted and scavenged
the forest floor until the food supply became low, then they
were caught and slaughtered. Being semi-wild, the meat from
these beasts was tough and stringy compared to what we are
used to, still Southerners ate on average five pounds of pork
for every one pound of beef. When the time came to slaughter
the pigs, it turned into a neighborhood celebration. Everyone
was invited to share in the feast, and the tradition of the
Southern barbecue was born.
Bound to the long tradition of slow-roasting, barbecue has
become much more than pit-smoked pork. A whole culture was
borne around the activity. What started as festive barbecues
held by plantation owners grew into bare concrete-floored,
corrugated tin-roofed shacks where African-American farmers
would set up shop on the weekends with a few expert pit-men
who would share their secret recipes for sauce. Desegregation
met its match at these weekend barbecue shacks where whites
made stealthy excursions for take-out. Beyond the racial unrest
of the 50s and 60s, the barbecue joint has flourished and
grown into a non-class-specific way of life. People from every
walk will gather round the fire to share food, drink, and
conversation. They are as popular at church picnics as they
are at political rallies. In the mid-1900s, journalist Jonathan
Daniels wrote, “Barbecue is the dish which binds together
the taste of both the people of the big house and the poorest
occupants of the back end of the broken-down barn.”
And indeed it still does today.
Differing from grilling that is found at most Northern outdoor
picnics, barbecuing is done slowly, utilizing smoke and moisture.
It is time consuming and inconvenient and one historian speculates
that it stems from the long tradition of general slowness
in the South. Above the Mason-Dixon Line we are more familiar
with The American Heritage Dictionary meaning of barbecue:
“a social gathering, usually held outdoors, at which
food is cooked over an open fire.” More honestly, we
“grill” our food as opposed to barbecuing it,
firing up the gas grill to get dinner on in a timely manner.So
what are we pressed-for-time Northerners to do when we want
tender, slow-roasted meat at our next barbecue? Henry Proctor,
our chef at Washington Square, is a wizard at his barbecue
smoker. He prepares a dry rub using brown sugar and other
secret ingredients for his ribs. He’s also partial to
slitting larger pieces of meat and placing cloves of garlic
in the creases then rubbing thyme and other herbs on them.
Then he slowly smokes them in his barbecue for several hours.
If you don’t have a fancy smoker like Henry, don’t
worry! Start with a Coleman Beef Brisket or a du Breton Pork
Shoulder, or just about any meat, and your gas or charcoal
grill. Slowly roast your choice at a low heat for a couple
hours making sure to spend time chatting about the kids or
your golf game with your friends. Toss a couple cloves of
elephant garlic in the bottom of the grill away from the fire
for added flavor, and steam an open can of beer or water on
the rack to add moisture. And near the end of cooking time,
don’t forget to slather on rich amounts of Jack’s
Grill Sauce. (Henry says, “Start about 30 minutes before
the meat is done. Slather it on real thick, then every ten
minutes slather and turn. Mmm, Mmm.” Oh, Henry, my mouth
is watering! After a couple hours of cooking time, you’ll
be pulling the meat away and dropping it by the handful into
your salivating mouth. Where’s my grocery list? I know
what I’m doing the 4th of July!
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| Extraordinary
European Beers — Perfect for Summer
As a retailer striving for excellence, it is
always a pleasure to come across a supplier that feels the
same way. Superior products and service are very important
to us as well as with Merchant du Vin. Merchant du Vin imports
only the finest beers in the world. These guys and gals are
true beer lovers! Every beer that they bring into their fold
is an award winner — labels that all beer lovers cannot
complete a collection without. Samuel Smith’s, Ayinger,
Orval, Traquair, Lindemans, Westmalle, Pinkus, Duinen, and
Melbourne Bros. are all extremely respected for what they
are able to create year in and year out. For the month of
July, we have chosen to feature two of the finest award-winning
breweries from this collection, Ayinger Brewery from Germany
and Lindemans from Belgium.
German beers have always deserved a great amount of respect.
It is the German brewers that turned beer making into a science.
Since 1878, Ayinger has made a reputation for itself as one
of the finest, if not the finest, brewery in all of Germany
due to the many accomplishments they have achieved. Ayinger
brews the best wheat beers and lagers in the world and they
can prove it. In January of this year at the World Beer Championship,
Ayinger won with all six beers they entered. They didn’t
just medal with each, they actually won every category they
were in. To top that, three of their beers scored higher than
any other that had ever been rated in their respective categories.
The Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock, Brau Weisse, and Ur Weisse
all scored 96 points or higher. German beer lovers have known
of the quality levels of these beers for well over a century;
we’ve not been so fortunate. The beers are here now,
however and we have plenty of time to enjoy them!
Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock — Extremely
dark, thick, and
rich with tons of heavy roasted malts. (97 points at World
Beer
Championship) 11.2 oz $2.99
Ayinger Brau Weisse — Light-style
Hefeweizen with a lot of
citrus fruit. (96 points at World Beer Championship) 1 pt
$2.29
Ayinger Ur Weisse — Amber-colored
Hefeweizen with good
fruit and great malts. (96 points at World Beer Championship)
1 pt $2.29
While the Germans were busy perfecting the brewing process,
the Belgians were looking to become the artists of the beer
world. In 1811, Lindemans was founded and started producing
Lambics in Vlezenbeek, Belgium. Lambics are produced only
in a small part of Belgium, along the Senne River Valley,
an area that allows for spontaneous fermentation. This kind
of fermentation occurs when wild yeasts ferment locally grown
barley and wheat. The uniqueness of this valley allows local
brewers to produce Lambics, the rarest of all beer styles.
Lambics are aged in oak barrels and then fresh fruit juice
is added triggering a secondary fermentation. These Ales are
flavored more like a fruit-infused champagne than what one
would expect from a beer. Lindemans is the premier producer
of this style and produces a variety of flavors including
raspberry, peach, and cherry.
Lindemans Framboise — Raspberry colored
and flavored with
good acidity and loads of fruit. 12 oz $4.99 or 750ml $8.69
Lindemans Peche — Golden in color
with the nose of fresh
peaches, sparkly with a clean finish. 12 oz $4.99 or 750ml
$8.69
Lindemans Kriek — Gobs of black cherries
in a rose-colored quaff. 12 oz $4.99 or 750ml $8.69
Prost,
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| Todd Norman
2002 Merlot
Why do you see big stacks of this wine in our
store? Why have we already sold hundreds of bottles? Why do
we love this wine? For several reasons. One is that it’s
our very own! The name is a fun play on names combining my
first name with Norman Mayne’s. And the wine is good,
very good.
We developed Todd Norman with the aid of one of Napa’s
most respected vintners, Michael Havens. Michael used 100%
Napa fruit, primarily from the prestigious Hyde Vineyard in
Carneros to produce Todd Norman. Robert Parker of the Wine
Advocate says of Michael, “Michael Havens produces elegant
reds that deserve more attention than they receive; moreover,
they are fairly priced!” We totally agree. One is that
this is simply an incredible wine for the price. Not only
does it have gobs of cherry/berry fruit, but has layering
of flavors with hints of chocolate, spice, and oak with a
velvety, well-polished finish. Enjoy our Todd Norman Merlot
with just a slight chill on it along with grilled steaks and
other summer fare. A DLM Exclusive $12.99 save $2.00 or $140.28
by the case, save $21.60
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| Maya Kaimal’s
Indian Sauces
If not for her scientist father living far from
ethnic restaurants in the prairies of Kansas 30 years ago,
Maya Kaimal might not have become the Indian cook she is today.
Being far away from everywhere, her father started cooking
the dishes he knew best – those from his home state
of Kerala on India’s southwest coast. Maya was at his
side learning to cook and honing her skills at every opportunity.
She even took notes at her aunt’s side when she’d
visit Kerala, determined to replicate the recipes of her heritage.
And lucky for us, she did! New to our Deli are fresh simmer
sauces – Maya Kaimal’s Tikka Masala, Coconut Curry,
and Vindaloo Sauces.
The Tikka Masala is a classic, creamy, tomato-based curry,
mildly spiced with cinnamon, cardamom, and clove. A traditional
favorite when simmered with chicken and served with rice.
It also works with fish, shrimp, and vegetables or blended
with yogurt for a cool dip or spread.
With the Coconut Curry, Maya brings us the delicately balanced
flavors of sweet coconut milk with fresh ginger and fragrant
curry leaves. These exotic flavors make a tasty curry with
seafood or vegetables, or even a zippy marinade.
Famous for being hot and sour, Vindaloo is made with black
pepper and coriander from India’s spice coast. Tempered
with tangy tamarind and coconut milk, this curry is always
a perfect sauce for beef, pork, or lamb. And what a way to
spice up tofu, vegetables, burgers, or wraps!
Add an Asian flair to your entertaining this summer, or simply
spice up your family meals. These authentic vegetarian sauces
are easy to use and readily available in our Deli Grab ’n
Go case. 15 oz $5.99
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| Water: Clean and Healthy
My daughter came home from the pool yesterday, her favorite
summertime hangout, complaining about her skin. “I itch
all over” she moaned. I offered to rub MSM lotion on
her back which was obviously red, scaly, and bumpy. “Too
much sun,” I assumed. “Naw,” she said, “I
think it’s the chlorine. It bothers my eyes too.”
When I was a kid growing up in California, I practically lived
in our backyard pool. And back then, when I was, um, naturally
blonde, my hair always seemed to take on a green tint. Yep,
it was the chlorine. Shampooing didn’t help, and my
mom even tried washing my hair in Tide detergent! That didn’t
work either. It wasn’t until we moved out of state,
and no longer swam regularly, that I got rid of my green hair.
We know that chlorine, although a toxic chemical, is necessary
in pool water to kill bacteria and viruses. It’s also
used in water treatment plants for the same reasons. But the
flip side of chlorine, aside from green hair, is that continuous
exposure can cause respiratory conditions such as asthma and
bronchitis, dermatitis (it reduces the capacity of the skin
to retain moisture), and serious eye conditions. According
to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the American
Journal of Public Health, Science News, and others, inhaling
the chemicals formed from chlorine during a steamy, hot shower
and absorbing them through the skin may have carcinogenic
consequences.
What’s important to know too, is that chlorine does
not remove other toxic chemicals from our water systems, such
as pesticides, household chemicals, industrial wastes, etc.
In fact, the Ohio EPA has reported that most treatment plants
are not adequately equipped to handle many chemicals, which
then are discharged into lakes, rivers, and streams. They
will eventually find their way into our drinking water. Many
of these chemicals form compounds known as xenohormones (“negative”
estrogens) which can seriously impact our endocrine systems.
Pesticides in particular are well known endocrine disrupters
and it is estimated that Americans use 2.2 billion pounds
of pesticides yearly, equating to eight pounds for every man,
woman, and child in the country!
Here in the Midwest, outdoor chemical use peaks during the
months of April through August. A 1995 study found that 29
major Midwest cities all had measurable amounts of pesticides
in the drinking water (significantly higher than government
allowances), and were especially high in Illinois, Indiana
and Ohio. The EPA suggested as a result of this study that
parents make sure their kids drink water from alternate sources.
But that’s only part of the solution. We’re also
washing and showering in chemicals that can have a serious
impact on our health.
So what can you do? Of course, drinking bottled water is certainly
an option, but maybe it’s time to consider treating
your water at home with a filtering system. In the Healthy
Living Department, we offer Aquasana water filtering and enhancement
systems. These filters have been shown to reduce the levels
of at least 45 toxic chemicals in house-hold water by 99%
(certified by the California Department of Health Services).
This is accomplished through a dual cartridge with a five-stage
filtration that “removes contaminants sequentially,
based on their prevalence and degree of competitiveness.”
This system also removes water-borne parasites and organisms
as well. I may not know much about chemistry, but I do know
that the end result is healthy, clean, great tasting water
from the kitchen faucet and a shower virtually free from chlorine
and contaminants.
Our Aquasana filtering systems will be at a 30% discount throughout
July.
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| SCHOOL
OF COOKING
July Classes
Happy Endings: Ice Cream, Sorbet, &
Ices
Brush the dust off your ice cream maker and let’s get
busy churning with Chef Carrie Walters.
Junior Chef Cooking Camp: Trip Across America
Our Junior Chef Cooking Camp at DLM will take you on a culinary
trip across America. Taught by Zebbie Borland, this summer
camp explores the art and fun of cooking while preparing foods
from different regions of the United States. Camp itinerary
includes a New England Breakfast, Down-Home Southern BBQ,
East Meets West, Tex-Mex Fiesta, and Heartland Favorites.
For ages 9 and up.
Fruits & Veggies on the Grill
Chef Carrie Walters’ menu features the season’s
freshest fruits and veggies grilled over the open flame.
Herb Primer
Always a popular instructor, Dottie Overman will teach an
A to Z lesson on cooking with fresh herbs while presenting
an enticing array of herb-infused dishes.
Upscale Grill: Keep It Simple!
Another round of innovative grill recipes from Chef Carrie
Walters, upscale but simple, and perfect fare for summer entertaining.
For a complete listing of all classes, visit our School
of Cooking page.
Club DLM card is required for
all sale prices. Prices herein are valid through July 31,
2004. In the event of a typographical error, in-store prices
will prevail. All sale items are limit five with Club DLM
card.
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| Recipes
For a printable version of the recipes listed
below, click here.
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| Honey-Glazed
Peach Tart with Mascarpone Cream
Adapted from Bon Appetit, August 2003. Start this tart
the day before you want to serve it to allow time to prepare
the crust.
- Crust
- 1 ½ cups King Arthur all-purpose flour
- 3 Tbsp powdered sugar
- 1/4 tsp salt
- 1/2 cup (4 oz) chilled, unsalted butter, cut into
½-inch cubes
- 3 ½ Tbsp (about) ice water
- Filling
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 3 Tbsp King Arthur all-purpose flour
- 2 tsp lemon zest
- 6 ripe, medium peaches, peeled, halved, pitted, cut
into ½-inch thick slices (about 4 cups)
- 2 Tbsp honey
- 2 Tbsp (1 oz) chilled unsalted butter, cut into small
pieces
- 2 Tbsp sliced almonds
- 2 Tbsp peach preserves, melted
- Mascarpone Cream
- 1 cup chilled whipping cream
- 6 Tbsp mascarpone cheese
- 2 Tbsp sugar
- 1/4 tsp vanilla extract
For crust:
Blend flour, sugar, and salt in processor. Using on/off turns,
cut in butter until pea-size pieces form. With machine running,
add enough ice water by tablespoonfuls to form moist clumps.
Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap in plastic;
refrigerate 1 hour.
Roll out dough on lightly floured surface to 12-inch round.
Transfer to 9-inch diameter tart pan with removable bottom.
Trim overhang to 1 inch. Fold overhang in and press to form
double-thick sides. Press inside edge of crust to push it
1/8 to 1/4 inch above top edge of pan. Pierce bottom of crust
with fork. Refrigerate 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 400º F. Bake tart crust until golden,
piercing with fork if bubbles form, about 25 minutes. (Can
be made one day ahead. Cool; wrap in plastic and store at
room temperature.)
For filling:
Mix sugar, flour, and zest in large bowl to blend. Add peaches
and toss to coat. Pour into baked crust. Drizzle honey over
peach mixture; dot with butter and sprinkle with almonds.
Bake until peaches are tender and almonds are toasted, about
35 minutes. Brush fruit and almonds with preserves. Cool 15
minutes before serving. (Can be made 6 hours ahead. Store
tart at room temperature.)
For mascarpone cream:
Using an electric mixer, beat cream, mascarpone, sugar, and
vanilla in a large bowl until peaks form.
To serve: Slice tart into 6 to 8 wedges and serve with dollops
of mascarpone cream. Makes 6 to 8 servings
Per serving: 555 calories (57% calories from fat); 36g
total fat; 21g saturated fat; 107mg cholesterol; 107mg sodium;
55g total carbohydrates; 6g protein
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| DLM
School of Cooking Favorite!
Fruit with Guava-Lime Glaze
From the Moosewood Restaurant Collective
– the guava-lime glaze brings out the jewel-like colors
of the fruit and adds a delectable sweetness that is amazingly
drip-free. If you like, dispense with the skewers and serve
fruit in a martini glass or wine glass garnished with a sprig
of fresh mint.
- 1/2 ripe cantaloupe or honeydew melon, peeled and seeded
- 1/2 ripe pineapple, peeled and cored
- 1 pint fresh strawberries, hulled (about 20)
- 1 small bunch of seedless green grapes (about 40)
- 1/2 cup guava paste*
- 3 Tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice (2 medium limes)
- 20 bamboo skewers
Cut the cantaloupe or honeydew melon into 1-inch bite-sized
cubes and place into a large bowl. Cut the cored pineapple
half into 5 to 8 long wedges and then into bite-sized chunks
– you should get about 40 pieces. Add the pineapple
to the bowl along with the strawberries and grapes.
In a blender, purée the guava paste and lime juice
into a smooth, thick dressing. Pour the dressing into the
bowl and toss with fruit.
On each bamboo skewer, spear 7 or 8 pieces of fruit; begin
and end with grapes because they’re the firmest anchors.
Arrange the finished skewers side by side on a large platter.
Make a second layer with the skewers perpendicular to the
first layer. Continue the criss-cross pattern for as many
layers as needed. Refrigerate until serving time. Makes 20
skewers
* Guavas are a native Central American
tropical fruit with a distinctive, refreshing flavor. The
paste is made from the guava pulp collected during jelly making.
Remember to visit our online Recipe
Archive for a wide variety of recipes sorted into many
categories.
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| Monthly
Prizes Throughout
the month of July, each time you use your Club DLM card you
will be given a chance to win...
- 4 Tickets to Blue Jacket — Ohio’s Great Outdoor
Play™
- Dinner for 4 at the Montgomery Inn (value $90.00)
- $50 Gift Certificate to Gaga’s at Town & Country
Shopping Center (Children’s Apparel and Bedding)
One set of prizes will
be awarded at each store location
unless otherwise specified. No purchase necessary to enter. |
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