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February 2004 Market Report
A
PDF version is now available!
Stop the Presses! New
La Volpe Hot Italian Pizza!
Real Italian pizza has arrived in Springboro,
Ohio. What do I mean by “real”? I’m not disrespecting American
pizza. Just that in Italia it’s different. For example, there
the toppings are flavorful, but not piled high. And the crust?
Italian
crust is much thinner, being both crispy and chewy at the
same time. These differences make Italian pizza surprisingly
delicate and won’t make you bloat like most American-style
pizzas. Recently, Bakery Director Scott Fox, inspired by a
trip to Italy a few years ago, created such a pizza right
here!
To do it, he started by researching recipes
from the consensus home of pizza, Naples. We also secured
an Italian hearth oven to bake it in at the requisite high
heat. Our La Volpe has the thin crust described above, made
by our artisan bakers with high quality flours, sea salt,
a touch of yeast, and water. We give the dough time to develop
slowly, over 24 hours, much as we do with our Artisan Breads.
The slow conditioning gives the dough extra flavor. We top
them with our own homemade pizza sauce, a little fresh mozzarella,
and other premium ingredients (my favorite topping is Prosciutto
di Parma). We then bake La Volpe directly on the extremely
hot hearth. The result is positively lip-smacking, and likely
very different from any pizza you have ever tried.
So what does La Volpe mean? It’s Italian
for “The Fox” so named in honor of its creator, Scott Fox,
and a lot of credit goes to Springboro Deli Manager Will King
for developing the toppings. Stop by the Springboro Deli for
a hot slice, right next to the sushi bar, or call ahead (937-748-6800,
ask for the Deli) for a whole pizza pie. You’re gonna love
it!
Department
Features
Every month, we feature select items in our
stores and provide you with detailed descriptions. Many are
new items and/or on sale!
MEAT
& SEAFOOD
Winter Comfort— Tuscan Style
Okay, it’s dark, cold, and gloomy, so what can we do? Build
a fire, gather some friends, and eat great food! No one knows
great food like the Italians, and the food from Tuscany is
some of the best, yet very simple and hearty. Known to some
as peasant food, the recipes are elegant but simple to prepare
and are sure to warm you up on a cold winter night. Try our
Petto di Tacchino, a boneless breast of turkey seasoned with
fresh basil, garlic, fennel, rosemary, and dill and rolled
with Italian bacon or pancetta. Simply roast at 325º F for
45 minutes, and enjoy the evening. Arista Pronta da Cuocere
is the Italian version of an oven-ready pork roast. This Frenched
rack of pork is heavily seasoned with garlic, basil, and rosemary.
Roast in the oven to 140º F internal temperature, and you
learn all about a whole new level of fast food. No prep work
with dinner on the table in less than one hour. That’s hardly
enough time to unwind from a rough day, but by the time you
sit down to dinner with family and friends it all makes sense.
Don’t forget the vino! $4.99 lb save up to $2.00 lb
Fresh Seafood — It’s “Summer Somewhere”
 We
have all used the ration-ale from the Alan Jackson song “It’s
Five O’ Clock Somewhere” to help us in our decision-making
process. With this kind of rationale one can come to the conclusion
that it’s summer somewhere – and that “somewhere” would be
Australia where the Australian cold-water lobster season is
in progress — flown in fresh, never ever frozen, from the
land down under just in time for your sweetheart’s Valentine’s
Day dinner. These tails will be 6-8 ounces each with a limited
number of large 20-ounce tails. Place your orders for this
special treat in the Seafood Department. This is the sweetest
tasting lobster you have ever eaten and are the same tails
served at the Bellagio in Las Vegas. Todd, our Wine Director,
recommends Jacques Guidon Muscadet des Coteaux de Loire to
go with this treat. This white wine is incredibly light with
nuances of pears and smoky minerals in the nose with a light-
to medium-bodied mid-palate with lemon/lime and sea salt flavors.
You will find the combination amazing!
Another special treat this time of year from northern Australia
is the Barramundi, a white-fleshed fish, the meat being soft
and delicate with a mild flavor. Fillets are round and thick
and adapt to any style of cooking. Flown in fresh, match this
new and exciting fish with our Jack’s Grill Extra-Virgin Olive
Oil with Meyer Lemon. Cold-pressed mission olives blended
with a refreshing citrus aroma of California Meyer lemons
make it the perfect complement for seafood, shellfish, fresh
greens, or veggies. Jack’s Grill Extra-Virgin Olive Oil with
Meyer Lemon $12.99
BEER
& WINE
Italian Wines — A Sampling of
Some of Our Current Favorites
Italy has always been a seemingly magical wine
destination and once visited only leaves you for a thirst
to see more of it. In this turbulent wine economy with escalating
prices, Europe still has some of the world’s best wine values
in spite of the currency exchange. Italy, when explored, possesses
great riches in wine, and these gems are often some of the
world’s great wine values as well. Italy is second only to
Spain in total land planted to the vine! From the Alps in
the north to the islands just north of Africa, Italy has an
amazing 3.4 million acres of wine grapes planted, and this
fact reinforces the Italian dietary trinity of bread, olive
oil, and wine. The majority of the wines reviewed below hail
from the traditionally commercial growing regions of Tuscany
and Piedmont in the Northwest yet there are some amazing wines
coming from regions in the south as well…from such regions
as Campania and Apulia. Please enjoy!
Boccadiggabia Rosso Piceno 2001
This favorite red wine value comes from the Marche region
of Italy, which sits on the eastern coast almost opposite
Tuscany. Boccadiggabia is a property that, until 1950, was
owned by Prince Luigi Girolamo Napoleon Bonaparte, direct
descendent of the French emperor. Because of this French influence,
Boccadiggabia is one of the only properties in the Marche
to have a long time commitment to French varietals in the
vineyards. The current owner, Elvio Alessandri, is completely
dedicated to quality in both the vineyard and the cellar;
it shows in this Rosso Piceno which is a nearly equal blend
of Sangiovese and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. It is extremely
bright and velvety in mouthfeel with intense cherry and strawberry
nuances in the nose while as dry as the finish is, it exudes
a great deal of creamy, blueberry fruit. Very good paired
with your favorite pasta dishes. $10.99 or $118.69 the case
Massone Gavi 2002
A beautifully dry white wine from the vineyards of Stefano
Massone in the Italian region of Piedmont, Gavi is the fine
white wine of this region of powerhouse reds and is made from
the Cortese grape. Massone is very strict with pruning in
the vineyard to increase quality of grapes and even then usually
only half of the grapes are chosen when hand-sorted to make
the wine. A very crisp and steely wine, it is very vibrant
with a touch of almond in the palate. Perfect with hors d’oeuvres
or as we had it in Como, Italy…. with pressed octopus! $10.99
or $118.68 the case
Altare 2002 Barbera d’Alba
Elio Altare is universally acknowledged as one of the world’s
greatest winemakers and his tiny vineyard in the La Morra
region of Piedmont is blessed with a sheltered horseshoe-shaped
perch with a southeastern exposure. His Barbera d’ Alba is
immensely rich and well developed with layers of ripe fruit,
herb, and oak as he does aging in small French oak barrels.
$18.99 or $205.08 the case
Ciacci Piccolomini 2001 Rosso di’ Montalcino
Rosso di’ Montalcino is a great way to experience the incredible
Sangiovese from Montalcino without the payout of the big brother,
Brunello di’ Montalcino. More youthful and full of vibrant
berry fruit, yet still powerful and concentrated. Much more
“bang for the buck” than many California big reds in the same
price range. $22.99
Fontaleoni 2002 Vernaccia de San Gimignano
A wonderfully pleasant white wine from Tuscany that I always
thought was superb with crab cakes, Vernaccia is very minerally,
dry, yet not bone dry…very elusive, yet very pleasing. The
famous artist, Michelangelo, once described the wine as one
that “kisses, bites, stings, and caresses.” I cannot beat
that! This is worth keeping a bottle around! $10.99 or $118.68
the case
BAKERY
New! Hand-made Cannoli
from the DLM Patisserie
Cannoli are some of Sicily’s most storied and
most loved treats. No wonder you find them all over Italy
and in Italian neighborhoods all over America. These simple
confections consist of pastry dough that is rolled up over
tubes, lightly fried, and then filled with a light, tasty
filling of sweetened ricotta cheese. Often the filling contains
other elements from candied fruit to chocolate drops to ground
pistachios. If you’ve ever had a good one, you know how tasty
they can be. However cannoli is not so wonderful if the ingredients
are cheap and/or it’s not fresh. If you’ve had a bad one,
you know how it can have that sodden, refrigerator flavor.
 So
how do you get a good one? You could visit New York City,
you could go to Palermo, Sicily, or you could just go to the
DLM Patisserie. Pastry chef Kim Bohley developed ours by trial
and error (this is a tough business…we had to eat our mistakes),
and by researching classic recipes. The origins of cannoli,
some say, date back centuries to Arab domination of Sicily.
Others say the origins are even earlier. Kim gave several
versions a try and finally settled on a very traditional one.
We use fresh ricotta cheese, lemon and orange
zests, cinnamon, and a touch of fresh whipped cream. Just
for fun, we add chocolate drops to some, ground pistachio
to others. Our fresh cannoli, with the contrast of the crisp
wafer and the fresh airiness of the filling…there’s nothing
quite like it. $3.29
GROCERY
Extra-Virgin Olive Oil at its
Peak
Wine and olive oil have many things in common.
Grape vines and olive trees thrive in similar conditions—with
relatively rocky soil, limited rainy seasons, mild winters,
and plenty of sunshine. Both are staples of cuisines ranging
from Greek to Sicilian, Spanish to Tunisian, French to northern
Californian. Each comes in seemingly endless varieties with
a corresponding range of flavor profiles. Both are chock full
of healthy polyphenols. In moderation, both have been shown
to be nourishing to the body, and some would say, to the soul.
Indeed, upon careful study, the two seem to be nearly symbiotic.
There is, however, one major difference: the way they age.
While many wines age beautifully and become more appealing,
olive oil, in nearly all cases, is at its very best the moment
it is pressed. If wine is Sophia Loren, becoming more elegant
over time, olive oil is Shirley Temple—at its peak at a tender
age. Of course there are exceptions to both. A big percentage
of wine is consumed past its prime; just ask any wine critic.
As for  olive
oil? We’ve tasted hundreds of oils around here, and I can
remember a couple as being better with a little age on them.
But by and large, in a wine that ages well, flavors are revealed.
As olive oil ages, flavors fade.
In the northern hemisphere, olives are harvested
and pressed from November to January. Guess what that means
for you and me? Yep, right now is the best time to indulge
in flavorful olive oil, because these oils are just now hitting
U.S. shores. Italians, especially, are keen to the new harvest.
This time of year you will notice several new pressings coming
on line, including our own Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive
Oil from Tuscany. (As of this writing, our newest shipment
is on the boat. When we taste it, we will let you know what
we think.) Many oils, especially the higher end ones, make
special note of “new oil” on the label for the first bottlings
of the new pressing, olio nuovo in northern Italy or olio
novella being the designation in the south. Since the flavor
is best this time of year, now is the time to indulge yourself
with health-giving olive oil at every chance: drizzled on
greens, in soups, over hot pasta, drizzled on pizza, over
grilled fish and meats, and more. Better yet, when you have
oils with this much flavor, if you’re like me, you want to
taste them as simply as possible. So get a loaf of crusty
bread and use them for bread dipping. Add a touch of sea salt
and fresh ground pepper or dip straight up. Believe me, these
oils have plenty of flavor all by themselves. Following are
a few super fresh, just harvested oils that we bought in very
limited quantities. Eight of us got together to taste them
the moment they came, and we were blown away with the flavors.
Get a couple and start enjoying their peak flavor right away!
Cappezana—This nuovo from Tuscany has a slightly
grassy scent, buttery texture and flavor mid-palate, a little
throat-tickling pepper on the finish, and leaves you with
a pleasant nutty aftertaste.
Olio Verde—This oil from Sicily is as powerful
as Sicilian sunshine. It’s fragrant—smells like a shot of
wheatgrass. When you taste it…wow! The flavors are very bright,
fruity, intense for sure. A couple of us picked up green olive
flavors. This oil also carries a peppery finish.
Tibvrtini Novello 2003—This one, from the Roman
countryside, also has a fresh grassy nose, not quite as intense.
In the palate, this was the king of smooth, with loads of
lip-smacking butteriness mid-palate.
SPECIALTY
CHEESE
Sini Fulvi Pecorino Romano
When it comes to food and drink, when you get
in touch with tradition, with true origins, most often you
get better flavor. For example, what do you first think of
when you hear the word “Romano”? Grated cheese in a can, right?
Don’t get me wrong…I’m not putting it down. I grew up sprinkling
it on my spaghetti too. But “Romano” out of the can is about
as different from authentic Pecorino Romano as a go-cart is
from a Ferrari. A little etymology may help explain the difference.
The Italian word “Pecorino” refers to sheep, and “Romano”
is Italian for Roman. So this cheese was originally a sheep’s
milk cheese from the countryside around Rome. Today Pecorino
Romano is not necessarily Roman, but it is still made from
sheep’s milk and its production is strictly controlled by
Italian law. Most of the Pecorino Romano produced today is
actually from Sardinia. Sardinian cheese is good, way better
than the canned stuff. But you take another step up, as we
found the first time we tasted it, when you have Pecorino
Romano that is really Roman.
The Sini Family has been producing great Pecorino
Romano for more than 30 years. They start with 100% sheep’s
milk harvested in the countryside of Rome and use only fresh
milk to make their cheese. The Sicilian or Sopravissana sheep
of the area produce milk that is richer in fat and protein
and has no additives or hormones. The Sinis age their cheese
for a minimum of ten months to develop more flavor, as opposed
to the six months of most Romano. And they carefully salt
the cheese by hand, gradually over three months, in order
to balance the flavor.
This cheese is wonderful for grating, but Sini
Fulvi Pecorino Romano is not just for sprinkling. You will
love it straight up as a table cheese. It pairs wonderfully
with fruit, crumbled in salads, with a hot bowl of ham and
bean soup, or simply mixed into a plate of pasta. This is
really great cheese, and the price is amazingly low for such
a fabulous traditional food. Get some and enjoy its great
flavor today! $5.99 lb save $2.00 lb
HEALTHY
LIVING
Expressions of the Heart
I’ve never been to Italy, although I’ve always felt a strong
connection to it. My great-grandfather was from northern Italy,
but we’re not sure specifically where. In fact, we’re not
sure what his given name was, or when exactly he was born.
All we know is that his father was an officer in the Italian
army. As a very young boy, my great-grandfather played the
harp and was considered a musical prodigy. He was kidnapped
when he was about 6 years old and brought to America to stand
on street corners and play his harp for money. He was given
the name “Michael” and eventually taken in by a woman who
adopted him.
My mom has always said that Michael was the grandpa with
the “biggest heart.” Although he grew to be a selfless man
who loved giving to others, mom could often see sadness in
his eyes. Even as a young child she knew his childhood memories
were painful, although he never talked about them. But his
eyes danced whenever he played his harp. “This is a song from
my heart to yours,” he would tell Mom.
 Michael
died of a sudden heart attack the day after he bought Mom
her first bicycle. Needless to say she was heartbroken. She
still talks about it. She remembers my great-grandmother saying
“If he had just opened up to the pain in his heart…”
Although she made that statement over 70 years ago, little
did she know that results of studies over the last 20 years
would substantiate it. According to Dr. Julian Whitaker (Reversing
Heart Disease, 2002), emotional stress alters the functioning
of the heart and is a significant risk factor for a heart
attack. We know the importance of diet and exercise in reducing
heart disease. We read endlessly about heart-healthy Omega-3
fats and the cardiac value of a daily walk. We also know that
stress is a key issue and that stress reduction is crucial
for a healthy heart. But I think we often attribute stress
to external forces – our jobs, the economy, traffic, whatever.
Rarely do we look into our hearts and acknowledge the stress
within, let alone admit that harboring it may affect our health.
Expressing our emotions is extremely difficult as we feel
it may leave us vulnerable in some way. I’m sure that’s how
Michael felt. But our lack of emotional expression may leave
us even more vulnerable in terms of heart health.
The up-side here is that we can control our emotional stress.
We can choose our response to it. We can choose to express
our feelings, let go of anger, or forgive those who have caused
us pain. We can choose to be kind to others and bring kindness
to ourselves. And we can choose to change our attitude about
those things that are seemingly out of our control. According
to Dr. Whitaker, our attitude can dramatically reduce the
amount of stress we experience and have a powerful effect
on our ability to “weather the storms of daily life.” And
that includes the storms in our hearts.
This year, let’s resolve to be good to our hearts. Let’s
add more fruits, veggies, good fats, and fiber to our diets.
Let’s get up off the couch and move. Let’s be less critical
of ourselves and others. Let’s be aware of our stress and
make a conscious effort to change our attitude about circumstances
that affect us. And let’s open our hearts and express how
we feel. You may be surprised what you hear.
SCHOOL
OF COOKING
February Classes
Couples Cooking Together Instructor: Chef Carrie
Walters Sunday, February 1 1-4 p.m. • $125.00 per couple
Hands-on Pies Instructor: Dottie Overman Tuesday,
February 3 6-9 p.m. • $55.00
Low-Carb Done Right! Instructor: Marlene Koch
Wednesday, February 4 6-9 p.m. • $65.00
Mini Basic Series: Protein Power Instructor:
Chef Carrie Walters Mondays, February 9 – February 23 6-9
p.m. • $165.00 (for all 3 classes)
Valentine Smiles! (for ages 7 to 11) Instructor:
Zebbie Borland Tuesday, February 10 4:30-6 p.m. • $35.00
Easy Weeknight Meals Instructor: Robin Davis
Wednesday, February 11 6-9 p.m. • $60.00
Knife Skills Instructor: Chef Carrie Walters
Thursday, February 12 6-9 p.m. • $55.00
Louisiana Specialties Instructor: Jack Zindorf
Tuesday, February 17 6-9 p.m. • $55.00
Soup Party! Instructor: Chef Carrie Walters
Thursday, February 19 6-9 p.m. • $50.00
Totally Thai 2 Instructor: Chef Carrie Walters
Tuesday, February 24 6-9 p.m. • $55.00
Breakfast: Rise & Shine (for ages 9 to 12) Instructor:
Zebbie Borland Thursday, February 26 4:30-6 p.m. • $35.00
Check out www.dorothylane.com for the complete list of classes!
We think you will find online registration a very convenient
way to register. Just log on to www.dorothylane.com and click
on the School of Cooking link. This secure site will walk
you through our quick and easy registration process. For more
information contact Deb Lackey, School of Cooking Director,
at dlackey@dorothylane.com or 434-1294.
For a complete listing of all classes, visit our School
of Cooking page.
Club DLM card is required for
all sale prices. Prices herein are valid through February
29, 2004. In the event of a typographical error, in-store
prices will prevail. All sale items are limit five with Club
DLM card.
Recipes
For a printable version of the recipes listed
below, click here.
 Pork
Wellington with Apple-Sage Sauce
This elegant entrée is perfect for a romantic Valentine’s
Day dinner. Adapted from Cuisine At Home.
- 2 du Breton pork tenderloins (6-8 oz each)
- 1 Tbsp Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
- 4 ozs Boursin cheese
- (1) 17.3-oz pkg puff pastry, thawed
- 6 ozs thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma
- 1 egg beaten with 1 Tbsp water
Trim the silverskin and the thin tail from the tenderloins.
Butterfly tenderloins making a 1-inch deep cut down the length
of each – do not cut all the way through. Stuff each tenderloin
with half of the Boursin. Lay half of the prosciutto slices
in a single layer, overlapping them slightly. Place stuffed
tenderloin at the base of the prosciutto and roll to cover.
Repeat with remaining prosciutto and second tenderloin. Sear
in oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until prosciutto
is brown and crisp on all sides, about 6-8 minutes. Chill
thoroughly.
Using 2/3 of each pastry sheet, roll each to a 16x12-inch
rectangle. Chill remainder of pastry and reserve for decorating
tops. Wrap each tenderloin in a pastry sheet and place seam-side
down on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush Wellingtons
with egg mixture, and then decorate with pastry vines and
leaf cut-outs. Cover with plastic wrap; chill one hour or
up to 24 hours.
Preheat oven to 400º F with rack in lower third of the oven.
Brush with more egg wash for good browning. Bake 30-35 minutes
or until golden. Allow to rest for 5 minutes before slicing.
To serve, trim off the ends (they’re doughy), then slice into
2-inch thick pieces. Serve with Apple-Sage Sauce. Makes 4-6
servings
Per serving: 650 calories (54% calories from fat); 39g
total fat; 14g saturated fat; 118mg cholesterol; 1360mg sodium;
42g carbohydrates; 34g protein
Apple-Sage Sauce
- 1/2 cup chopped yellow onion
- 3 cups low-sodium beef broth
- 1/4 cup chopped carrot
- 2 Tbsp cold water
- 1/4 cup chopped celery
- 2 Tbsp cornstarch
- 1Tbsp tomato paste
- 1 Tbsp apple jelly
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 Tbsp unsalted butter
- 1 Tbsp unsalted butter
- 2 tsp minced fresh sage
- 1/4 cup apple juice or cider
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 cup dry white wine
Sauté vegetables, tomato paste, and bay leaves in 1 Tbsp
of butter until soft, about 5 minutes. Deglaze pan with apple
juice and wine, scraping bits from the bottom of the pan.
Simmer 5 minutes. Add beef broth and cook until reduced to
2 cups. Strain and return broth to a clean pan. (Sauce may
be made ahead to this point and chilled.) Bring to a boil
over high heat. Combine cornstarch and water in a small bowl
and mix until smooth. Whisk cornstarch into the boiling broth,
stirring constantly until slightly thickened. Reduce heat,
stir in jelly, 1 Tbsp of butter, and sage. Season, to taste,
with salt and pepper. Makes about 2 cups
Per 2 Tbsp serving: 35 calories (44% calories from fat);
2g total fat; 1g saturated fat; 4mg cholesterol; 17mg sodium;
3g carbohydrates; 1g protein
DLM School of Cooking
Favorite!
Macadamia Nut Fudge Brownies with Kahlúa Hot Fudge
These rich double chocolate brownies from
Chef Tim McGrath are made extra special when napped with his
decadent Kahlúa Hot Fudge and served with a scoop of vanilla
bean ice cream. A perfect dessert for Valentine’s Day!
- 1 cup cocoa powder
- 1½ tsp salt
- 10 ounces (1¼ cups) unsalted butter
- 1½ cups macadamia nuts, raw and unsalted, coarsely chopped
- 5 eggs, room temperature
- 2½ cups sugar
- 1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
- 1¾ cups all purpose flour
- 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract
- 1½ tsp baking powder
Preheat oven to 350° F. Grease and flour a 9x13x2-inch pan.
Combine cocoa and butter in a mixing bowl. Place bowl over
a pot of simmering water and stir until butter is completely
melted. Allow mixture to cool slightly. In a separate bowl,
cream eggs and sugar. Add cocoa butter mixture and mix until
well combined. Sift together dry ingredients and add all at
once to creamed mixture. Mix only until ingredients begin
to incorporate and then fold in nuts, chips, and vanilla.
Do not over-mix.
Pour batter into prepared pan and spread evenly. Bake for
22 minutes, then rotate pan and bake for an additional 22,
watching time carefully. Allow to completely cool before cutting.
Makes 12 large brownies
Kahlúa Hot Fudge
- 12 ounces semi-sweet chocolate
- 1/2 cup light corn syrup
- 8 ounces unsalted butter
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 1 ounce Kahlúa or coffee liqueur
Combine all ingredients except Kahlúa in a double boiler.
Stir occasionally until mixture is smooth and completely melted.
Remove from heat and add Kahlúa.
Note: Hot fudge will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator,
just warm in a water bath before serving. Makes 3 cups
Remember to visit our online Recipe
Archive for a wide variety of recipes sorted into many
categories.
Monthly Prizes
Throughout the month of February,
each time you use your Club DLM card you will be given a chance
to win...
- $35 Gift Certificate to Thai West
- $40 Gift Certificate to Marco’s Paper
- St. Patricks’ Day Gift Basket ($50.00 value)
One set of prizes will
be awarded at each store location
unless otherwise specified. No purchase necessary to enter.
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Bakery
