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July 2003 Market Report
A
PDF version is now available!
Balsamic Vinegar—A World of Flavor
Worth Discovering
I bet you find it lots of fun to discover new foods and
flavors. Me too. Sometimes though, new food ideas are overwhelming, better
yet, just plain weird. You go to a friend’s dinner party or a restaurant
and they encourage you, “…and try this pan-seared faux turkey
breast with a hot pepper chutney honey vinegar reduction.” “Sounds
great!” you say as you flash a smile that hides your complete bewilderment.
Most of the time however, when I’m offered something new to eat, I’m
very thankful both for the sensory experience as well as the education. And
even though I often feel a little intimidation meeting people who know a lot
more than I do about a given food, the thrill and taste of discovery keeps
me pushing (sometimes stumbling) forward.
I’m eternally grateful that balsamic vinegar was
one such food to cross my path some years ago, and the more I taste and learn,
the more exciting it gets. Balsamic vinegar may be relatively new to our food
culture, but it has been produced for centuries in a small food-rich section
of northern Italy (which part of Italy isn’t food rich?) called Emilia
Romagna, specifically around the towns of Modena and Reggio Emilia. While
the history of this condiment is fascinating, the flavor is what has me hooked.
Give it a shot if you haven’t already. It’s easy to use and just
a little bit will make many basic dishes extraordinary.
How do you pick a balsamic? Depends what you want to do
with it. Before we get to uses, though, keep in mind that balsamic vinegar
is classified as either industriale (also called commerciale) or tradizionale.
Among the industriale , which is most often labeled “Balsamic Vinegar
of Modena,” you find vinegars ranging in cost from a few bucks for a
500-ml bottle to upwards of $40 for 250ml, with a corresponding range of quality
and flavor complexity and intensity. The vinegars in this category all have
some percentage of tradizionale blended with less expensive wine vinegar.
Flavors range from thin and acidic to thick, complex flavors such as sweetness
and oak.
The second category, aceto balsamico tradizionale, is expensive
at around $60 per 100-ml bottle up to prices nearing $200. The key
word here is tradizionale. By Italian law, to receive this designation, the
vinegar must be produced from 100% pressed grape juice, called “must”
that is cooked down, then aged in a special series of casks for no less than
twelve years. Then it must pass a final blind exam by Master Tasters from
the Consortium. In Modena, there are two levels: aceto balsamico tradizionale
and aceto balsamico tradizionale extravecchio (extra old: spends at least
25 years in casks). In Reggio Emilia, they rank the tradizionale in three
levels: red seal, silver seal, and the ultra premium gold seal. How do these
vinegars look and taste? They are generally a deep chestnut color with a thick
almost syrupy texture. The palate experience is so intense it nearly makes
my toes tingle and my ears turn red. The flavors often begin with a focused
prune like intensity that expands and yields to layers of cherry, oak, and
raisin. Traditional balsamic vinegar may well be the world’s ultimate
condiment.
Once you see how balsamic transforms foods, you will experience
its true greatness. As for the lower end industriale, the range of uses is
wide, including just about any application where you use vinegar.
Try it combined with olive oil and sea salt for vinaigrettes, use for marinating
meats, stir into sauces and mayonnaise, or drizzle on fresh vine-ripened tomatoes
along with olive oil and sea salt. It makes a killer side dish when stirred
in with small cooked onions. You can use it as well to deglaze after pan-searing
fish and meats. (For more information on deglazing, click
here) If you want to “cheat” a little and get more intensity
without buying traditional balsamic, you can do a reduction by pouring some
industriale in a shallow pan over medium heat. Allow about 50% to evaporate,
then use it to brush on meats just as they finish cooking.
With the tradizionale vinegar, all you need is a few well
placed drops to season your food. And it’s not complicated. For example,
Meat and Seafood Director Jack Gridley “perfumes” his Coleman
steaks at home as he finishes them on the grill and says the result is amazing.
Try mixing a few drops with sliced fresh strawberries before topping with
real whipped cream. When the weather turns cooler, brush tradizionale on roast
meats such as lamb, rabbit, and Coleman beef. And this high-end vinegar is
just that much more amazing when used in some of the ways mentioned above
for industriale, such as
stirred into mayo as well as drizzled on fresh tomatoes. Yes, this stuff is
big bucks, but the benefit you get is worth it. A small bottle can make a
lot of food taste great and can last for months. That’s why a lot of
us around here including Donna Howell, Todd Templin, Scott Fox, Jack Gridley,
and many more keep a well-guarded bottle at home.
Specifically, then, which ones should you choose? For an
excellent industriale, try DLM’s own Aunt Angie’s Balsamic Vinegar
of Modena. After rigorous taste testing, we chose this one for its excellent
balance of acidity with sweet, more complex aspects. To step up the ladder,
the higher end industriales, Cavalli Balsamic Seasoning or Villa Manodori,
are excellent choices. And what if you’re in the mood to swing for the
fences? Both the traditionals from Modena made by the Malphigi family and
the ones from Reggio Emilia made by the famous Cavalli brothers will make
the food at your home taste superb.
- In our Grocery Department:
- Aunt Angie’s Balsamic Vinegar of Modena 500ml $7.99 save
$2.00
- Villa Manodori Balsamic Vinegar 250ml $29.99 save $6.00
- Cavalli Balsamic Seasoning 250ml $12.99 save $3.09
- In our Wine Department:
- Malpighi Traditional Balsamic of Modena 100ml $60.00 save $15.00
- Malpighi Extra Old Traditional Balsamic of Modena 100ml $150.00
save $30.00
- Monte Cristo Cherry Wood Traditional Balsamic of Modena 100ml
$100.00 save $20.00
- Cavalli Red Seal Traditional Balsamic of Reggio Emilia 100ml $60.00
save $15.00
- Cavalli Silver Seal Traditional Balsamic of Reggio Emilia 100ml
$80.00 save $20.00
- Cavalli Gold Seal Traditional Balsamic of Reggio Emilia 100ml
$140.00 save $25.00
Department Features
Every month, we feature select items in our stores and provide
you with detailed descriptions. Many are new items and/or on sale!
GROCERY
New! Texas Joe’s Salsa
Did you know that a few years ago salsa quietly passed ketchup as the number
one condiment in America? Salsa is simply the Spanish word for “sauce,”
and the sauce varies greatly depending upon where you are and what dish you
are having. Go to Spain or Peru, for example, and you will find the “sauce”
to be totally different from what we generally think of as salsa. Mexico is
the inspiration of almost all American salsa. Interestingly, even in Mexico
it varies widely: each family, it seems, has its own recipe. They do, however,
share a common base of ingredients. I have a lot of Mexican friends, and whether
they are from Michoacan or Monterrey, they all
include fresh tomatoes, vinegar, chiles, and onions. It is this Mexican style
of salsa that is most common in our country, and with good reason—it’s
healthy, tastes refreshing, and adds flavor to all kinds of foods.
You may remember when salsa was yet exotic. Maybe you first had it on a trip
to Texas, or your great aunt from New Mexico visited and brought along a jar.
For a lot of us around here at DLM, the salsa connection is Joe Presas. Joe
is a native of the Texas-Mexico border, and he has been an associate at DLM
for over 30 years. Wherever Joe worked, you could always find salsa. To this
day, passing by to say hello to Joe always means a taste of salsa and breaking
out in a forehead sweat. In Joe’s honor then, we name our new salsas
“Texas Joe’s.” Both varieties, Peach as well as Roasted
Tomato, are made to our specs in small batches in California’s wine
country. They’re great with chicken, pork, and beef dishes, and of course,
with good hearty corn chips (our favorite is El Milagro). Best of all, Joe
approves, and I’m sure you will too once you taste Texas Joe’s.
A Clean and Happy Home With The Help Of Mrs. Meyer
I’m going to be honest with you. House cleaning is not high on my list
of priorities. In fact, my motto is, “Dust is a protective coating.”
So I was not totally enthralled with the idea of being put to task to write
about cleaning products. However, just one sinkful of dishes later, I am sold
on Mrs. Meyer’s Clean Day. I squirted the fragrant lavender dish soap
into hot running water expecting no suds and extra scrubbing. Isn’t
that what you get from those “all-natural” cleansers? Not true!
I got a brimming sink of aromatic suds that lasted till the final pot. After
that, I spent the whole day doing laundry with Mrs. Meyer’s laundry
detergent—and enjoying it! Worried about a heavy scent left on my clothing,
I was pleased days later to find a subtle hint of lavender. I’m telling
you, this product
has changed my family’s life. Okay, that may be going a bit overboard.
I am, however, enjoying cleaning my house.
So what makes Mrs. Meyer’s Clean Day so special? If you’ve shopped
with us even once, you know that we do our best to provide you with foods
that are honestly better. So it only makes sense that we would offer you household
cleansers that promote a healthy home for you, your family, and your pets.
Previously, I hated to ask my children to help clean because I feared what
the harsh chemicals would do to their young lungs, skin, and eyes. Much to
their chagrin, I no longer have to worry about that. With Mrs. Meyer’s
Clean Day complete line of household cleansers, you will find the finest,
plant-derived essential oils and earth-friendly cleaning agents in every bottle.
The aroma of lavender is wonderfully relaxing and tranquil and is believed
to relieve fatigue. The lemon verbena has a light citrus scent that is refreshing
and invigorating. No need to worry about harsh chemicals and synthetic anti-bacterial
or antiseptic ingredients. All their liquid products are biodegradable and
do not contain ammonia, chlorine, phosphates, or petroleum distillates, and
have less than one percent preservatives. The powdered Kitchen Scrub does
contain minerals that do not biodegrade, yet it breaks down into non-harmful
decomposition products. In addition, they do not test any of their products
on animals. Mrs. Meyer’s Clean Day rallying cry is Uncomplicated Products
for a Clean and Happy Home. I feel so much better knowing I am promoting a
healthier world for myself, my family, and our environment. And now, when
I settle down at the end of a long day with my family around me, the dust
isn’t on my mind. And I don’t dread the thought of Cleaning Day.
New! Volcano Orange Juice™
Ever heard of Tarocco, Sanguinello, and Moro? Three towns
in Morocco? Nope. A Puerto Rican law firm? Try again. These three
names, foreign as they sound, will mean a great deal to you once you taste
them. Indeed, taste them, because they are three prized varieties of sweet,
juicy, red oranges that grow in Sicily. Sicilian blood oranges are one the
world’s most prized fruits, rarely found fresh in the United States.
Both the appearance (yes, blood red, almost maroon), and supremely sweet flavor
of their flesh and juice makes them very special.
 Volcano
Orange Juice is a refreshing blend of these three Sicilian oranges, and we
can hardly believe that we were able to get our hands on some. These blood
oranges are entirely hand-harvested, organic fruits grown in rich volcanic
soil along the slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily. Once picked, they are immediately
pressed to yield a wonderful beverage that is high in vitamin C, calcium,
potassium, and iron. Not only is the juice irresistible in flavor, the deep
color is evidence of its high antioxidant content. This is 100% blood orange
juice, not from concentrate.
Enjoy Volcano Orange Juice as a drink by itself, or try
it with Champagne or in cocktails. You will also love it whisked with olive
oil for a refreshing vinaigrette. You can even use it to make a dessert sauce
topping for simple cakes or ice cream (reduce under heat with a little sugar
and butter). In any case, be sure to pickup a couple of bottles of this rare
and very special juice. It is a real find.
MEAT &
SEAFOOD
Wellington Farms Chicken
 Raised
free range so that birds have more exercise and fresh air. A healthier bird
yields better meat.- Each bird is individually air chilled. This process ensures fresher product
with less
 chance
for contamination.
- Wellington Farms Chicken is raised without added hormones, steroids, or
antibiotics.
- The meat is naturally more tender and juicy without added water or brining.
- Richer and better chicken flavor by far, compared to ordinary supermarket
brands.
HEALTHY LIVING
Fats: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
Last night for dinner we had salmon. “Salmon again?” my daughters
complained, rolling their eyes and shaking their heads. But this wasn’t
just any salmon. This was the last of my stash of Copper River salmon. I always
freeze some to enjoy after the catch. My
husband, the chef, assures them it will be the best salmon they’ve ever
had. “Yeah, well, that’s what you said two nights ago,”
15-year-old Lindsay reminds him.
Okay, so we eat A LOT of salmon. It’s a staple at our house. We love
experimenting with different marinades and seasonings, or if we’re in
a hurry, we slather one with Jack’s Grilling Sauce and toss it on the
grill. The rich flavor and melt-in-your-mouth texture just can’t be
beat. I must admit though, that one of the best reasons to eat salmon regularly
is its nutritional content. Not only is it a significant source of protein
and antioxidants, it is one of the best sources of “good” fats.
There’s so much confusion about fats in general, and lack of accurate
information may actually be hazardous to our health. A few years ago we began
embracing low-fat diets, eliminating fat as often as possible. We witnessed
the explosion of fat-free foods, which gave us the impression that we could
eat as much as we wanted because it was the fat that was making us fat. Why
then has obesity and its related health problems soared in America? About
five years ago, the American Heart Association warned that very low-fat diets
were found to lower good cholesterol (HDL) and elevate triglycerides, possibly
contributing to a higher risk of heart disease.
 Along
with protein and carbs, fat is considered a “macronutrient.” The
balance of the three helps sustain a healthy body. Fat plays a significant
role in temperature and metabolism regulation, energy production, internal
lubrication, hormone balance, and vitamin absorption, not to mention eye health
and brain wellness. Yep, DHA, an omega-3 fatty acid, plays a crucial role
in the development and stability of the nervous system, brain, and retina.
It helps us focus and concentrate, while giving us a healthy mental outlook.
Omega-3s are among the best of the good fats. You’ll find them in oily
fish like salmon, tuna, and sardines, as well as flax seeds, hemp seeds, and
walnuts. Studies have shown that omega-3 fats can also lower the risk of heart
attacks, reduce blood clotting, lower triglycerides, balance blood sugar,
improve joint function, and possibly reduce cancer risks. Wow! That’s
quite a list!
Similar benefits are found in mono-saturated fats, which we get in olives,
olive oil, almonds, and avocados. We know that countries whose primary source
of dietary fat is olive oil have the lowest incidence of heart disease. Olive
oil is also rich in vitamin E which acts as a natural preservative. Canola
oil is also a mono-saturated fat but any actual health benefits have not been
determined.
Polyunsaturated fats, or omega-6s, are found in corn oil, safflower oil,
soybean oil, etc. Although we need some of these fats in our diet, Americans
tend to overdo them because of our affinity for fast foods and packaged sweets.
An excess of omega-6s is associated with higher bad cholesterol (LDL), lower
good cholesterol (HDL), and increased inflammation. They’re also prone
to oxidation and rancidity.
Saturated fats are found in animal products such as meat, poultry, whole
milk, etc. Studies have shown that excessive levels of these fats may be artery
clogging. The key here is moderation. Think
lean. Trim the fat from your steak and skin the poultry. Go with skim milk.
The ugliest of fats are trans fats, also known as hydrogenated oils. These
fats have an added hydrogen molecule to keep them solid at room temperature
and increase shelf life. They’re abundant in margarine, shortening,
commercial peanut butter, and most packaged snack foods. Read your ingredient
labels! There are no safe levels for this type of fat. As these fats are poorly
metabolized and tend to store along artery walls, they are associated with
the highest risk factors for heart disease. And be assured that these fats
will make you fat.
The bottom line is that we need certain fats in our diet. Experts agree that
about 20-30% of our daily intake of calories should be fat. Eat your salmon,
use olive oil liberally, add the avocado to your salad, grab a handful of
almonds or walnuts. The health benefits of these good fats are plentiful,
without unhealthy weight gain. If you find it hard to get your daily intake
of good fats, omega-3 supplements are available. Visit the Healthy Living
Department and we’ll be happy to assist you in choosing a product to
meet your nutritional needs.
Oh, by the way, our salmon last night was exceptional. Drizzled with Vera
Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive Oil and a touch of tamari sauce, gobs of chopped
onion and garlic, and a pinch of sea salt and ground pepper, then grilled
to perfection. “You’re right,” said Lindsay, as her dad
gloats. “This is the best salmon I’ve ever had. But tomorrow can
we have hamburgers?”
SCHOOL OF COOKING
- Star Wars 3 (ages 7-11)
Let your child feel the force at our third Star Wars cooking adventure!
- Smart Summer Shortcuts
Get out of the kitchen this summer. Let Chef Carrie Walters share her ideas
for fast fresh foods using shortcuts and tips of the trade.
- Mediterranean Classics on the Grill
Great grilled meats and seafood with a Mediterranean flare.
- Hands-On Pies
Learn the proper way to mix, roll, and bake the perfect crust while making
your very own double-crusted apple pie to take home!
- Tuscan Inspirations
Join Chef David Glynn as he prepares an array of Tuscan-inspired dishes
that are sure to become favorites in your recipe repertoire.
For a complete listing of all classes, visit our School
of Cooking page and browse the Summer Schedule.
Club DLM card is required for all sale
prices. Prices herein are valid through July 31, 2003. In the event of a typographical
error, in-store prices will prevail. All sale items are limit five with Club
DLM card.
Recipes
For a printable version of the recipes listed below,
click here.
Asian Salad with Salmon Cakes
From Cuisine at Home
Salmon is an intensely flavored fish that can handle plenty
of seasoning. The traditional Asian flavors of this recipe pair perfectly
with salmon. Make the salmon cakes in the morning or the night before to allow
them to chill.
- For the Asian Vinaigrette:
- 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
- 3 Tbsp olive oil
- 2 Tbsp low-sodium soy sauce
- 2 Tbsp sugar
- 2 tsp sesame oil
- 1 tsp fresh ginger, minced
- 1 tsp crushed red chiles
- Sea salt, to taste
- For Salad:
- 10 oz Spring Mix
- 1/2 cup torn fresh basil leaves
- 1/2 cup torn fresh mint leaves
- For the Salmon Cakes:
- 1 lb fresh salmon, poached, chilled, flaked
- 2 cups panko bread crumbs
- 1/3 cup minced scallions
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
- 4 eggs
- 3 Tbsp fresh lime juice
- 3 Tbsp low-sodium soy sauce
- 2 Tbsp rice vinegar
- 2 Tbsp fresh ginger, minced
- 2 Tbsp jalapeño pepper, seeded, minced
- 1 Tbsp sugar
- 1 tsp sea salt
- 1 cup panko bread crumbs
- 1/4 cup sesame seeds
- 2 Tbsp olive oil
Whisk all vinaigrette ingredients together and chill until serving.
Combine salmon, 2 cups panko, scallions, and cilantro. Whisk together eggs,
lime juice, soy sauce, vinegar, ginger, jalapeño, sugar, and salt.
Combine with the salmon mixture. Spread 1 cup of panko and sesame seeds on
a baking sheet. Form 12 salmon cakes (about 1/4 cup per cake) and press into
panko/seed mixture to cover both sides. Chill at least 1 hour. Fry cakes in
2 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat until golden brown, about 3-4 minutes
per side. Drain on paper towels.
Combine spring mix, basil, and mint. Toss with 6 tablespoons of the vinaigrette
and divide between 6 plates. Place 2 salmon cakes on each salad and drizzle
with additional vinaigrette. Makes 6 servings
Per serving: 506 calories (52% calories from fat); 29g total fat; 5g
saturated fat; 186mg cholesterol; 1019mg sodium; 34g carbohydrates; 26g protein
To poach salmon: Use enough water to cover the flesh. Use
a salt-to-water ratio of 1 teaspoon of salt to 1 quart of water. Heat just
until you start to see bubbles. Add the fish, cover, and simmer (never boil)
just until the fish flakes, about 6 minutes per pound. Remove the salmon from
the water and chill until ready to use.
Mocha Ice Cream Cake
From Bon Appetit, August, 2000
Start this at least one day before you plan to serve it.
If well wrapped, it’s a great dessert to have on hand in the freezer
for last-minute plans.
- 6 ozs chocolate wafer cookies, broken into pieces
- 3 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted
- 2 quarts coffee ice cream, slightly softened
- 1/3 cup chocolate covered espresso beans
- 2¼ cups whipping cream, chilled
- 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
- 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp powdered sugar
- 1/2 cup plus 1 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
- Chocolate shavings (optional)
Blend cookies in a food processor until finely ground. Add melted butter;
process until crumbs are moistened. Press crumb mixture onto the bottom of
a 9-inch spring-form pan with 2 ¾-inch-high sides. Freeze until firm,
about 15 minutes.
Place ice cream in a large bowl. Finely chop the espresso beans in a food
processor. Add to the bowl with the ice cream; stir until well blended. Transfer
ice cream mixture to the crust-lined pan. Smooth the top. Cover with plastic
wrap and freeze overnight.
Combine whipping cream and vanilla in a large bowl. Sift powdered sugar and
cocoa over. Using an electric mixer beat until soft peaks form. Spread mixture
over the top of the ice cream layer. Freeze until topping is set, at least
an hour.
To serve: Sprinkle chocolate shavings over top of cake. Run knife between
pan sides and cake to loosen. Remove pan sides. Smooth cake sides with a spatula.
Let cake stand about 10 minutes before cutting. Makes 12-16 servings
Per serving: 442 calories (60% calories from fat); 30g total fat; 17g
saturated fat; 89mg cholesterol; 143mg sodium; 40g carbohydrates; 5g protein
DLM
School of Cooking Favorite!
Lemon Ice Cream with Chocolate Grand Marnier Sauce
Another fabulous summertime dessert from Hugh
Carpenter. We know you will enjoy this one!
- Ice Cream
- 4 cups half and half
- 2 cups sugar
- 1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
- Mint sprigs or candied lemon for garnish
- Sauce
- 8 ozs semi-sweet chocolate
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 1/2 cup Grand Marnier or less, to taste
For the Ice Cream
Beat the half-and-half with sugar until well mixed. Stir in lemon juice and
mix well (ignore the curdled look!). Churn in ice cream freezer. Makes 2 quarts.
For the Sauce
Cut chocolate into small chunks. Place chocolate and heavy cream in small
saucepan, and melt over simmering water. Stir until thoroughly blended and
then stir in the Grand Marnier. Set aside at room temperature.
Assembly
If the chocolate sauce is a little too thick to pour evenly over dessert
plates, warm over simmering water. Then glaze dessert plates with a thin layer
of the sauce. Place one large scoop or three small scoops in the center of
each plate. Garnish with mint sprigs or twists of candied lemon. Serve at
once. Makes 12 servings
Remember to visit our online Recipe
Archive for a wide variety of recipes sorted into many categories.
Monthly Prizes
Throughout the month of July, each time you
use your Club DLM card you will be given a chance to win...
- Dinner for 4 at Montgomery Inn ($90.00 value)
- Tickets for 4 to Paramount’s Kings Island
- Tickets for 4 to Blue Jacket — Ohio’s Great Outdoor Play™
One set of prizes will be awarded
at each store location unless otherwise specified.
No purchase necessary to enter.
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Bakery
