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For past issues of the Market Report,
visit our Market Report Archive!
February 2003 Market Report
A
PDF version is now available!
 February
is northern Italian month at Dorothy Lane Market! The map to the right indicates
the regions of Italy where the products in this issue of the Market Report
originate. This month please join us as we take a tasty tour of the northern
regions of Italy!
New! Pane Toscano*
Go to a bookstore’s travel section, or online, and you
will find reams of information about Tuscany’s beauty, cuisine, wine, and
more. You will note that this storied region between Milan and Rome is beholden
to just about everyone who goes there. Why is Tuscany spoken of with such
affection? What makes Toscana so appealing?
Driving on Strada Provinciale (state road)
27 from Siena to Cortona in Tuscany, Italy as a friend and I did last summer,
you could for a moment imagine that you are somewhere in rural Ohio or Kentucky.
You negotiate the narrow, twisting country road that leads you past trees,
fields, and rolling hills. You pass an old farmer tending to a cow. You stop
at a little roadside grocery where you fill up on fuel and get coffee. On
one hand, Tuscany feels comfortable and natural. Blink your eyes, and familiarity
yields to exotic. The fields on the right are alive with vineyards and olive
groves, rather than rows of corn and soybeans. On your left looms an ancient
town atop a hill—ten centuries old with walls ten feet thick. The farmer you
saw speaks the nobly-accented Tuscan-Italian, and the coffee you had was a
perfectly potent espresso served up by a signore sporting a sleek pair of
Bruno Magli tan leather shoes. I agree, as others have noted, that even the
sun seems brighter in Tuscany. I don’t know if this illusion is caused by
the power of suggestion, or maybe it’s simply the way that your surroundings
reflect the sun’s brilliance. For me, this is Tuscany’s appeal: the comfort
of the familiar mingled with discovery of the exotic.
Oh, and one more thing…the food. The flavors of Tuscany,
if you can imagine, are equal to its beauty: stuffed, roasted meats coated
in fresh herbs, lush olive oils, flowery honeys, succulent figs, and rustic
wines. “Enough already,” you say, “nowhere is that perfect.” OK, I concede
the place isn’t paradise. You do occasionally run into a kitschy gift shop.
Every time you fill your little car’s gas tank, it costs you a week’s wages.
And when you are on the autostrada, you are nearly run off the road by the
pack of aspiring Mario Andrettis that whiz by.
 When
it comes to food, even Tuscany has its Achilles heal—bread. No kidding. I
found that much (but not all, as you will see) of the bread I tasted in Italy,
including Tuscany, is downright bland. Even proud Tuscans fumble for words
making excuses for it. As one food writer tactfully put it, “tasting Tuscan
bread for the first time does take some getting used to.” The culprit? In
a word: salt, or rather, the lack of it. Many Tuscan bread bakers use little
to no salt! One explanation often given by food historians is that centuries
ago a prohibitive tax on salt motivated Tuscan bakers to leave it out of their
recipe as a form of protest. In any case, the lack of salt directly translates
into lack of flavor. But times are changing for the better for Tuscan bread.
As my friend Alex Zanetti tells me, many Tuscan bakers, such as Panaio di
Lucignano, are now incorporating salt. Alex says their bread is fabulous.
Enter Dorothy Lane Market’s elite crew of artisan bread
bakers. When put to the challenge, they developed our new Pane Toscano. This
latest entry into our pantheon of great artisan breads is quite different
from anything we have ever created. It has a hearty brown, rather than tan,
crust. The interior doesn’t have the holes of a sourdough or a baguette, rather
it has a dense spongy texture. We pay homage to tradition by fermenting the
dough slowly, hand-shaping each loaf, and baking on the hearth. And like the
new generation of Tuscan bakers, we add one more important ingredient: sale
di mare. The addition of just a pinch of sea salt makes a beautiful bread
more interesting and most importantly—much more flavorful.
This new loaf is so good, in fact, I would challenge you
to compare it with any you would find in Italy, traditional or otherwise.
Try a loaf along with your next dinner. Tear off pieces and dip it in your
sauce or Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive Oil (also from Tuscany). Savor DLM’s
Pane Toscano along with a wedge of Taleggio cheese and glass of Chianti wine**.
Alora amico mio (therefore my friend), this evening pickup a loaf, put on
Pavarotti, pour a little glass of vino, and take a little trip to Tuscany.
- Pane Toscano 22-oz loaf $2.99 save 50¢
- Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive Oil 500 ml $9.99 save $1.00
* PAH-nay tô-SCAH-no — in English, “Tuscan
Bread”
** If you don’t finish the whole loaf
in the first few days,
use the old bread as the Tuscans do to make a salad called
Panzanella.
Department Features
Every month, we feature select items in our stores and provide
you with detailed descriptions. Many are new items and/or on sale!
GROCERY
The Most Precious Oil—Olio Nuovo
Each year about this time, we are excited to try the newest harvest of olive
oils, because with precious few exceptions, extra-virgin olive oil tastes
best the fresher it is. Olives are generally harvested and pressed from November
to January. And so right now it is with eager palates that Italy and other
olive oil-loving cultures welcome a new year’s pressing. This month you will
notice several new pressings coming on line, including our own Vera Jane’s
Extra-Virgin Olive Oil from Tuscany. Many oils, especially the higher end
ones, have dates of harvest or pressing on the bottle, and some even print
“olio nuovo” (new oil) on the label for the first few batches of new oil.
Since the flavor is best this time of year, we recommend you indulge yourself
with healthy olive oil at every chance: drizzled on greens, for bread dipping,
in soups, over hot pasta and pizza, over grilled fish and meats, and more.
To get you started, here are a couple of excellent olio nuovo for you to enjoy:
Winter 2002 Harvest Tibvrtini Novello
From Tivoli, the countryside near Rome, the new pressing has a fresh grassy
nose and loads of butter mid palate. Use it to lightly pan fry sole or tilapia.
Also excellent for bruschetta. 500ml $24.99
Winter 2002 Harvest Capezzana
A medium-bodied green oil from Tuscany with layers of olive/fruit flavor and
classic peppery finish. A real treat drizzled on toasted crusty bread, as
well as a great addition to pasta sauce. Also outstanding over fresh ripe
tomatoes with a little sea salt. 500ml $23.99
Rustichella Pasta Sauces
As far as I can tell, these are our only Italian pasta sauces that actually
come from Italy. And what great representations they are! They are made with
superb ripe Italian tomatoes, extra-virgin olive oil, veggies, and sea salt.
The original sauce is something of a dream, flavorful enough to eat straight
from the jar with a spoon, and the organic, I think, is even better. The jars
are intelligently sized so that one jar perfectly marries with a one-pound
package of pasta. It’s just enough to properly cling to the pasta. When preparing
the sauce, gently simmer it a couple of minutes before combining with the
pasta, or you may mix it as is with hot pasta right after draining the pasta.
As for any sauce that may be left over, it’s great for mopping up with our
new Tuscan bread, Pane Toscano.
- Rustichella Original Tomato Sauce 9.53 oz $4.29 save 70¢
- Rustichella Organic Tomato Sauce 9.53 oz $4.59 save $1.00
MEAT &
SEAFOOD
Celebrating Food, Friends, and Family—Italian
Style
From my impressions of visiting Milan, Parma,
Modena, and Tuscany, I feel that no one knows more about family, friends and
great food than the Italians. Their whole culture, it seems to me, is centered
on these three pillars of life. My personal ancestry may not be Italian, but
I agree with their philosophy. So my resolution for February is to spend more
time celebrating life with my family and
friends, and of course, eating more great quality food.
Any reason to gather together for a meal is
acceptable. Begin with February 2, Ground Hog Day, for example. Treat your
loved ones to our recipe for Osso Buco using veal shank and vegetables, cooked
tantalizingly slow, to create this rich, thick Italian Stew. You will be hoping
the Ground Hog sees his shadow so you can have four more weeks of winter to
prepare this dish one more time! Nothing is easier to prepare for a family
gathering than a batch of pasta with meat sauce. It can be as simple as adding
some of our Italian meatballs (made with Coleman Natural Beef™) to the sauce
or some cooked clams and mussels from our Seafood Department. Or, entertain
some friends with a dinner appetizer of Monastici: thin slices of Coleman
Beef eye-of-round wrapped around prosciutto ham and provolone cheese, then
quickly sautéed in a pan of olive oil. If you like chicken, you will love
Fagottini di Polo: boneless chicken thighs seasoned with fresh garlic and
rosemary, salt, and pepper. Another suberb dish that we make oven-ready for
you is Arista Pronta da Cuocere: a cradled rack of pork seasoned with fresh
garlic cloves, rosemary, and sage then roasted to perfection in your oven.
It will have them all thinking you took Italian cooking classes. Join us this
month as we celebrate family, friends, and great food.
- Veal Shank for Osso Buco $6.99 lb save $1.00 lb
- Store-Made Italian Meatballs $4.49 lb save 50¢ lb
- Monastici $8.99 lb save $1.00 lb
- Arista Pronta da Cuocere $4.99 lb save $1.00 lb
- Littleneck Clams $4.99 dozen save 50¢
- Mussels 2 lb-bag $4.49 save 50¢
Fresh Australian Cold-Water Lobster Tails
Flown in fresh – never, ever frozen – from
the land Down Under. These tails will be 6-8 ounces each and the sweetest
tasting lobster you have ever eaten. Orders are being taken in our Seafood
Department for this delectable treat arriving just in time for your special
Valentine’s Day dinner. Combine a Lobster Tail and a New York Strip Steak
from our Meat Department for a surf-and-turf dinner you will not soon forget!
SPECIALTY CHEESE
Italy’s Great Regional Cheeses
When most people think of Italian cheeses, they think extremes: either very
soft and mild like mozzarella, or something granular and salty like Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Since I’m most familiar with French cheeses (my family is from France), Italian
cheeses are new to me, yet I’m finding them very intriguing. Much like France,
Italy has a wide selection of fascinating cheeses, yet with some interesting
differences. One is that in France, you can find certain cheeses all over
the country. Camembert from Normandy, for example, is available everywhere
as is brie, Roquefort, and many others. Italians, it seems, are more locally
oriented. So the cheeses from a certain region are most often sold and eaten
within that region. Some of these regional Italian cheeses are just too good
to be kept secret! And here at DLM, we offer you some of the best. Following
are a couple of our favorites.
Fontina Val d’Aosta: From Italy’s northern border, authentic Fontina
has its name stenciled on the rind-the name overlies a mountain in the background.
It has a flavor of grass and nuts, a very earthy cheese. One of my favorite
Italian cheeses! $9.19 lb save up to $1.00 lb
Taleggio: From Italy’s Lombardy region, this rich, semi-soft cheese
is made from whole cow’s milk. It has a distinctive pungent aroma, very earthy
with a creamy, smooth texture. A very tasty cheese! It reminds me of a ripe
Pont Leveque from France. When young, Taleggio’s color is pale yellow and
its texture semi soft. As it ages, it darkens to deep yellow and becomes rather
runny. $8.99 lb save up to $1.30 lb
BEER & WINE
2000 Masi Modello Delle Venezie
This beautiful red wine made from Valpolicello in the Veneto region of northeastern
Italy is full of bright, jammy berry fruit, plums, a touch of leather and
spice, with a soft plush finish. Perfect with gnocchi and red sauce. $9.99
Villamagna Rosso Piceno
From the Marches region in east central Italy, this elegant and versatile
red wine is made from a nearly 50/50 blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano.
Dry, soft, and palatable, it has deep red fruit and soft vanillin nuances.
$9.99 or $107.89 by the case
2001 Gini Soave Classico
You must reacquaint yourself with Soave, and we mean good Soave that can be
associated with the top-notch white wines of the world! The Gini estate is
a marvelous example of family synergy; father Olinto Gini and his two sons
work side by side to re-establish Soave’s reputation as one of Italy’s finest
white wines. The Soave Classico is 100% Garganega grape (which is very important
as most other producers of Soave are legally allowed up to 30% Trebbiano,
which dilutes the wine.) The fruit is very lively, crisp, and vibrant with
a pleasant steely nuance. A perfect accompaniment to light seafood and pasta
dishes, we particularly like this with tilapia cooked with olives and basil.
$11.99
Zardetto Prosecco Brut D.O.C. NV
This non-vintage bubbly is a super wine that is not too dry and not too sweet.
Made with 95% Prosecco and 5% Pinot Bianco, it is perfect with brunch or your
favorite seafood dish. $11.99
HEALTHY LIVING
Straight From the Heart
February has often been referred to as “heart month” because, of course,
Valentine’s Day falls on the 14th. When we hear that term, we conjure up thoughts
of heart-shaped candy boxes, flowers, and other personal gifts we offer to
our loved ones as an expression of our feelings.
If you, however, ask healthcare practitioners about “heart month,” chances
are they’d refer to cardiovascular health and an opportunity to raise awareness
about heart disease. According to Stephen Sinatra MD, a board certified cardiologist,
the heart is the most susceptible of all organs to premature aging. We do
our best to watch our diets, reduce stress, and exercise regularly to keep
our hearts in good shape. But is that enough? Dr. Sinatra thinks we can do
more. In one of the best articles I’ve read on heart health (International
Journal of Integrative Medicine, Feb. 2001) he states that our hearts are
“highly responsive to the benefits of nutritional agents.” Among those he
favors is CoEnzyme Q10. His research indicates that CoQ10 is a powerful antioxidant
that can “prevent depletion of metabolites necessary for heart health.” CoQ10
is a vitamin-like substance found in every cell in our bodies, with higher
concentrations in our heart muscle. It’s crucial in the production of ATP,
which is the energy produced by the cell to keep it functioning. It’s kind
of like a spark plug in an engine. If you’d like more information about CoQ10,
stop by the Healthy Living Department.
At our Springboro store, check out Healthnotes Online. It’s a computer kiosk
which allows access to information on over 100 health-related issues written
by doctors and pharmacists. You’ll find a summary of the condition, conventional
and complementary treatments, as well as dietary and lifestyle considerations.
There are also great recipes you can print out!
During this year’s “heart month” as we choose a gift straight from our hearts,
let’s also think outside the candy box. Let’s think heart health. It may be
the most valuable gift of all.
These statements have not been evaluated by the
Food and Drug Administration. Dorothy Lane Market recommends consulting a
physician before taking any new supplement, especially if pregnant or taking
prescription medications.
DELI
Unibon Prosciutto di Parma
 It
would be criminale to celebrate the foods of mother Italy without featuring
the famous, cravable ham from Parma. We’ve tasted many, and when we met Unibon’s
Alberto Severi and Mario Guidetti near Modena and tasted their prosciutto,
it was love at first bite. Food celeb David Rosengarten, who visited us several
months back, tried our Unibon and told us that it’s the best one he’s tasted
in America. Taste it for yourself and see why we love it. Serve thin slices
wrapped around fruit or breadsticks, over pizza, on sandwiches, or torn in
salads.
- Unibon Prosciutto di Parma $13.99 lb save $3.00 lb
- Prosciutto di Parma Baguette Sandwich $4.49 each save 50¢
Piacenti Tuscan Ham with Herbs
The Piacenti family selects a special breed of Tuscan pork thighs to make
their marvelous grilled and roasted ham. Altogether different from the famous
salt-cured Prosciutto di Parma, this cooked ham from Tuscany is nonetheless
just as intriguing and packed with mouth-filling flavor. Before roasting,
the Piacentis infuse the hams with rosemary, black pepper, and garlic along
with a little brine. Afterward, the hams are grilled, then slow roasted in
special ovens for 16 to 18 hours. While the texture is firm, the mouthfeel
is soft and punctuated by the infused flavors of rosemary, pepper, and garlic.
This ham is excellent for sandwiches made with crusty bread and soft cheese,
such as our Lily’s Tuscan Lunch (look for it with our other fresh-made deli
sandwiches).
- Piacenti Tuscan Ham $10.99 lb save $2.00 lb
- Lily’s Tuscan Lunch $5.49 each save 50¢
SCHOOL OF COOKING
- Basic Cookery Series
A series of eight classes for cooks who are just starting out.
- Bread Basics
Basic bread-making skills.
- How To: Simple Pan Sauces
Create simple pan sauces by deglazing with wines and vinegars.
- Contemporary Casseroles
Quick & simple casseroles prepared with today’s fresh food trends in mind.
- 30-Minute Soups & Stews
Soups and stews a la Rachael Ray!
- California Wine & Food
Wines and foods of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, Monterey, and the Central
Coast.
- SOY!
From A to Z – everything you need to know about Soy!
- Hugs & Kisses (ages 7-11)
Celebrate Valentine’s Day with our menu of heart-shaped treats!
- Breakfast Breads
Basics of working with yeast while preparing coffee cake and pecan rolls.
- Wine & Cheese
Imported and domestic blues from around the world paired with Sauternes
and ports.
- Working with Yeast 101 (ages 13-16)
Basics of working with yeast while preparing bread and rolls.
- 30-Minute Italian Meals
30-minute Italian meals a la Rachael Ray!
- Celebrating the Silk Road
A very special event with DLM and the Dayton Art Institute.
- How To: Perfect Gravy
Create perfect chicken and beef gravy and au jus.
- Asian Wraps
3 All-new recipes for trendy Asian Wraps.
- Chef’s Knife Basics
Chop, dice, and julienne your way to culinary success!
Club DLM card is required for all sale
prices. Prices herein are valid through February 28, 2003. In the event of
a typographical error, in-store prices will prevail. All sale items are limit
five with Club DLM card.
Recipes
For a printable version of the recipes listed below,
click here.
Bruschetta
Traditional bruschetta (pronounced
broo-SKEH-tah) is Italian garlic bread. Toasted bread is rubbed with fresh
garlic and drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. It’s that simple. Frequently
in the U.S. it is served with some sort of topping. Following are two delicious
variations adapted from David Rosengarten’s book Taste.
- 1 1/3 lb Rustic Country Bread
- 1/2 cup Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
- 4-6 cloves garlic, sliced in half
- Sea salt
Cut the bread into twelve 3/4-inch thick slices. Toast the bread on both
sides over a charcoal grill, in a grill pan, or under the broiler, carefully
watched so as not to burn it. Rub the edges of the bread with cut garlic.
(This technique prevents you from tearing the center of the bread and with
each bite you get the garlic taste.) Drizzle each slice with one teaspoon
of olive oil, breaking the surface of the bread lightly with a spoon to let
the oil soak in. Season with salt. Turn the slices over and repeat the oil-salt
procedure. Serve as is for simple bruschetta, or top with one of the following
recipes. Makes 12 slices
Gorgonzola-Mascarpone-Red Pepper Topping
- 1 lb Gorgonzola cheese, room temperature
- 1 lb mascarpone cheese
- 10 to 12-oz jar roasted red peppers, sliced in strips
Mix the two cheeses together in a bowl, blending well. Divide among the 12
slices of prepared bruschetta, spreading evenly. Top with pepper slices. Serve
immediately.
Fresh Tomato and Basil Topping
- 2 lbs ripe tomatoes, diced
- 1 tsp Aunt Angie’s Balsamic Vinegar of Modena
- 1 cup torn basil leaves, packed
- 1/2 cup finely diced onion
- 1 clove garlic, pounded into a paste with 1/2 tsp salt
- 2 tsp Vera Jane’s Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
- Sea salt and freshly cracked pepper
In a bowl, mix together tomatoes, basil, onion, olive oil, and vinegar. Add
the garlic paste and blend well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let
stand at room temperature for two hours, if possible. When ready to serve,
use a slotted spoon to place topping on 12 slices of prepared bruschetta.
Serve immediately.
Veal Stew in Mustard Sauce
Mary Jones, a regular Oakwood DLM customer, shared this Washington Post recipe
with us. It begs to be sopped up with some crusty bread or served over noodles
to soak up the delicious sauce.
- 1½ lbs boneless veal stew meat, trimmed of all visible fat and cut into
1-inch cubes
- 1/2 cup dried currants
- 2 cups Bowman & Landes Chicken Broth
- 2 Tbsp grainy mustard
- 1 Tbsp olive oil
- 1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper
- 1 cup chopped onion
- 2 tsp cornstarch mixed with 2 Tbsp cold water
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 3 carrots, peeled and sliced
- 1 Tbsp white wine vinegar
Wash the veal cubes and pat dry. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven
over medium-high heat. Brown the veal on all sides, removing the cubes with
a slotted spoon when browned.
Reduce heat to medium-low, add the onion and garlic, and sauté, stirring
frequently, for 5 minutes. Return veal to the pan and add carrots, currants,
broth, mustard, and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat so the stew is
just simmering, cover, and continue cooking for 1½ hours or until the meat
is fork tender.
Stir the cornstarch mixture into the stew. Allow it to simmer for 2 minutes
to thicken. Stir in the vinegar. Makes 6 servings
DLM
School of Cooking Instructor Favorite!
Pasta Puttanesca
Hearty and pungent, and oh-so-good for you! Marlene Koch is a registered
dietitian and culinary nutritionist who teaches chefs around the country the
principles of healthful cooking and eating.
- 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 4 cloves of garlic, minced
- 28-oz can San Marzano crushed tomatoes
- 2 Tbsp capers
- 1 tsp anchovy paste
- 1/3 cup chopped kalamata olives
- 1/3 cup red wine
- 1 Tbsp Balsamic vinegar
- 1/4 to 1/2 tsp crushed chiles
- 8 ounces of rigatoni
- 1/2 cup chopped Italian parsley
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Parmigiano-Reggiano
Heat oil in medium-size saucepan. Add garlic and stir. Add tomatoes through
crushed chiles. Stir well; simmer uncovered for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Adjust
to taste with pepper. Meanwhile, cook the pasta until al denté. Drain and
place in a large bowl. Pour the sauce over the pasta and gently toss with
sauce. Garnish with parsley, fresh pepper, and a generous sprinkle of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Makes 4 servings
Remember to visit our online Recipe
Archive for a wide variety of recipes sorted into many categories.
Monthly Prizes
Throughout the month of February, each time
you use your Club DLM card you will be given a chance to win...
- Six Free Lessons at the Dayton Yoga Center (value $54.00)
- $40 Gift Certificate to Marco’s Paper
- St. Patrick’s Day Gift Basket from our Floral Dept. (value $50.00)
One set of prizes will be awarded
at each store location unless otherwise specified.
No purchase necessary to enter.
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Bakery
